STAND N°19 "Unconventional" area.
Inspired by nature
Our perfumes just landed at MP3 store, dedicated to making men look and feel their best, at home or around town. A collection of mixes furniture, apparel, apothecary, and other design elements in one attractive space.
212 Third Avenue North, Suite 106, Minneapolis, MN 55401, USA. www.martinpatrick3.com
Our latest window at Fumerie Parfumerie, in Portland, Oregon. Photo by Katherine Butler.
May 2017 issue, by Ivo Parac.
FROM 1885 TO 2011... A PLACE AMONG PLACES.
Opened in 1885, Les Bains Douches, built and operated by the Guerbois family,
became the first and the most renowned bathhouse of the capital.
It was a temple; a space sanctified to massages and delights of Japanese, Russian, Turkish and sulphur baths.
Customers could choose to swim in the pool or take a bath as they would at home.
Marcel Proust loved to come and take steam baths, while the workers from the nearby Les Halles food market
came at dawn to shower and drink coffee and calvados after their night’s labours.
In 1978, this unique place transformed clubbing into an art and rapidly became a
cultural phenomenon; a temple of the Parisian night. It was a centre of gravity,
the eye of the storm, a crossroads of fashion, media, show business and arts.
Andy Warhol, Jean-Michel Basquiat, Yves Saint Laurent, Karl Lagerfeld, Naomi Campbell,
Claudia Schiffer, Bono, Prince, David Bowie, Mick Jagger, etc. The list is endless.
In 2011, to reinvent and save this icon of Parisian nightlife, La Société des Bains was born under
the leadership of Jean-Pierre Marois... This, then, is the very first page of the new history of Les Bains.
Photos by Mr R
Photos by Mr R.
Best Fragrance: NUIT de Bakelite (Naomi Goodsir, Renaud Coutaudier and Isabelle Doyen)- Naomi Goodsir Parfums had a separate suite at the posh Principe di Savoia . All was white, draped and minimalist in contrast with the lush backdrop of the Garden of Eden theme at the Esxence main hall. The avant-garde accessory designer Naomi Goodsir and partner in perfumery, Rene Coutaudier presented NUIT de BAKELITE composed by master perfumer Isabelle Doyen, (who most of our readers know from her work with Annick Goutal). One of the most talented perfumers and teachers on the planet, you might be familiar with a different side of her oeuvre;for the Swiss company LesNez. Ahead of her time, I first became familiar with her unconventional daring side in LesNez Turtle Project, threefragrances that showed three very different aspects of vetiver: woody, green and smoky. I mention this because NUIT de Bakelite is a DARING perfume and unlike anything I have smelled in many years.
First, the back story. Renaud met Isabelle 13 years ago, they stayed in touch. Four years ago, Naomi Goodsir shared her love of vintage 1930s bakelite jewelry with Isabelle. Then the process; mod after mod until everyone agreed “this is it”
Master Perfumer Isabelle Doyen and yours truly
I am not usually a fan of tuberose–centric fragrances, but NUIT de BAKELITE is unlike any tuberose I have encountered. It is the bud before the flower opens and becomes the heady queen of the night. It is the roots, the seed, grown in a bio-sphere in another galaxy. My nose to my wrist, I smell fractured shards of green tuberose, textured and deconstructed. Experimental but classically constructed, with a direct nod to vintage scents as if Fracas had an eccentric distant cousin. My skin faintly picked up the plastic of the bakelite; most certainly others will, and also find it very green. The Karo Karounde, a flowering shrub from Africa which has been compared to jasmine adds a 3-d quality to the entire composition and along with the davana was the most prominent on my skin. The longevity was overnight and sillage excellent. Top Notes: galbanum, saffron, angelica root; Heart Notes: Indian Tuberose, Ylang-ylang, davana; Base notes: Karo Karounde, Styrax, Birch tar, Cade, labdanum and musk.
Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief - http://www.cafleurebon.com/
Isabelle Doyen is a graduate from the renowned ISIPCA, Paris. Today, she is a part time teacher there, sharing her extensive knowledge of fine perfumery. Outstanding students Francis Kurkdjian & Mathilde Laurent are graduates of her class.
The rest of Isabelle’s time is devoted to her perfume creation company Aromatique Majeur. Since the 1980's, Isabelle has been the ‘in house’ perfumer for Annick Goutal where with Annick, she co-signed many of Goutal’s perfumes. With Camille Goutal, Isabelle continues to create for the Goutal brand.
Isabelle was one of the very first independent master noses, who has gained rare distinguished respect from her fellow peers as a talented artist expressing her creativity through fine perfumery. She considers fragrance compositions as a universal language - deeply personal, intimate & secret. Isabelle is a friend, who Renaud has known & followed for 13 years. Naomi & Renaud had always dreamed of working with Isabelle well before the creation of their premier fragrances. From Isabelle’s side, she viewed Naomi as a source of inspiration. So through a close collaborative vision ‘ Nuit de Bakélite ’ was born.
Photo by Evgeniya Chudakova in Naomi Goodsir Parfums, "Insomnia" suite, in Milan 2017
The encounter between Art & Science.
By combining silicone with open work textile materials, Tzuri Gueta invented a technique of blowing silicone onto lace. Tzuri Gueta graduated from Shenkar College in Tel Aviv, Israel as a designer & textile engineer. After settling in Paris in 1996, Tzuri worked at Trend Union - an agency run by Li Edelkoort where he concentrated on textile design. His innovative approach gave rise to surprising materials that border on sculpture – materials that deceive the senses of touch & vision.
In November 2013, the National Museum of Natural History in Paris, hosted the exhibition ‘Noces Végétales’ (Plant Nuptials) by Tzuri Gueta, inside the Great Green houses in the Jardin des Plantes. Using silicone-infused lace to create works inspired by the organic world, Tzuri enhanced the luxuriant greenery of the greenhouse by entwining his silicone pieces with nature.
Tzuri Gueta collaborates with the worlds most acclaimed haute couture houses : Chanel, Givenchy, Jean-Paul Gaultier, Stéphane Rolland, Issey Miyake, etc …
Shay Frisch exhibition "Luminous Connections" - Compo 37586_B / N, just ended at the Galleria San Fedele in Milan. A very interesting work based on the transmission of the energy that creates light. The catalogue of the exhibition - Silvana Editoriale - is available at the Biblioteca San Fedele.
campo 4011_N, 2010 / electrical components
campo 7346_N, 2016 / electrical components
campo 14009_B, 2012 - 2016 / electrical components. Photos by Mr R
INSTALLATION - « INSOMNIA » at Hotel Principe di Savoia, March 2017
Naomi chose to use a hotel suite as a medium, transforming it - in situ, by dressing the furniture & objects with white cotton fabric - her own vision of a ‘nuit blanche’. The room is bought back to a blank canvas …
Surrealistic techniques of psychic/compulsive writings & drawings from artists, such as Louise Bourgeois’s ‘Insomnia Drawings’ inspired Naomi as a relevant expression of the nocturnal tuberose flower – obsessive, fresh, green, animalistic & addictive.
A few hand made original & unique silicone plants by Tzuri Gueta from ‘Noces Végétales’ are displayed in the suite, as a link to some aspects of the perfume.
"Insomnia" installation, Hotel Principe Di Savoia in Milan, 26th March 2017 / 5.00AM
Photos by Mr R
Photos by Mr R
élu by Cristina Nicoletti is a multi-channel retail luxury goods company.
The atmosphere and concept of the boutiques focuses on artisanal, unique,
timeless yet modern objects of beauty as we strive to continue to source talented and interesting designers.
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