A FEW DAYS APART
A FEW DAYS APART
Christmas gift list
by Karen MacCartney
Featuring IRIS CENDRE in December 2017 issue. Thank you Karen.
"Karen McCartney is best known for her work in the world of interiors, architecture, design and home wares across print media (editing marie claire lifestyle and Inside Out magazines) and more recently as the editorial director of Temple & Webster, driving their award-winning blog".
Marty Naspraskevicius is simply the best chef in Lithuania with a very creative touch. We had a fabulous evening! Thank you Marty for the divine dishes prepared on the premises for the wonderful invitees of Creme de la Creme & Naomi Goodsir Parfums first "Insomnia dinner" dedicated to Nuit de Bakelite.
Crème de la Crème Haute Parfumerie in Lithuania.
Vilnius, day & night. It was raining, but the charm was still there. A wonderful city to visit.
Posta Magazine, Russia. Quite cool animations, indeed ! Article by Maya Beloglinskaya for Posta Magazine. Animations by Alex Baltsevich.
The place to rest in Moscow.
A sheet of paper & a drop of perfume ...
Photos by Mr R.
Nuit de Bakélite (by Isabelle Doyen), the new addition in Naomi Goodsir's already excellent line (website here), is a “nature” tuberose, that is with no silicones, fluorescent neons, high heels and shiny lips and all the rest we are used to.
Nuit de Bakelite is simple. Linear. Like a perfect, white flower standing on a tall stem, wearing only its truth.
A green, vegetable, damp, slightly smoky fragrance, with a powerful sensuality deriving from being naked and exposed.
The green side of this flower is backed by a bouquet of galbanum, angelica, davana, violet leaves and karo karounde, a natural, green, lush accord with such a strong personality would do the fragrance alone. From this magnificent accord, tuberose emerges in all its raw grace, as a huge amethyst with incredible purple shades, brightening the dark of night with an iridescent glow emanating from the inside outward.
The support structure consists of iris, leather, styrax (benjoin), tobacco and guaiac wood. A warm, dry, balanced set that begins to emerge after an hour from spraying, to stay on the skin for many, many hours.
Neither male nor female, Nuit de Bakélite is a fragrance with a crazy diffusive power: it is able to create a huge scented bubble around those who wear it. A translucent bubble, indeed, inviting others to approach and make compliments (personally tested).
So far, Nuit de Bakélite is the only fragrance - along with the Perris extract – that respects the character of the true blossom. It has nothing to do with the plasticized, carnal, fluorescent, medicinal, or hyper sexy tuberose we have been used to for decades by Fracas, Criminelle, Carnal, and all the others, and I really liked that.
Nuit de Bakélite makes obvious that everyone has always given an interpretation of this flower, while this is a portrait from real, a 3D polaroid which so far, perhaps, no one had understood so deeply.
Article by Marika Vecchiattini.
Article by Denyse Beaulieu. September 2017.
Without Lenin, there would be no Chanel N°5.
The absurd thought occurred to me as I was reading China Miéville’s meticulously researched and brilliantly written October: The Story of the Russian Revolution. Conflating the Ten Days that Shook the World[i] with Ernest Beaux’s fifth proposal to Gabrielle Chanel may seem like a bit of a jump. But Beaux wouldn’t have immigrated to France if it hadn’t been for the Bolsheviks. And his contribution to perfumery was, if not an actual revolution, a definite game-changer (unlike the house’s latest offering). Playing with blotters and vials might seem like strumming the balalaika while the world burns, drowns and quakes (has anybody else who grew up during the Cold War been having atomic mushroom nightmares again?). For what it’s worth, this fall I’ll salute the 100th anniversary of Red October with the ten scents that are shaking my world these days.
Nuit de Bakélite
by Isabelle Doyen for Naomi Goodsir
For all the delicate, poetic fragrances she composed for Annick Goutal, it’s easy to forget that Isabelle Doyen can also be a badass avant-gardist (as she demonstrates in her nearly impossible to find Les Nez creations). In Nuit de Bakélite, she turns the tuberose -- or rather, the “peduncle that connects the stem to the flower” -- into a mutant plant exuding radioactive sap; a scent-track for Day of the Triffids. Milky-thick at the heart, day-glo green at the edges with an opalescent splash of iris, this non-linear composition has one of the most distinctive signatures I’ve smelled of late.