BERGAMOTTO & BENZOINO, Italy

 

NUIT DE BAKELITE (Isabelle Doyen 2017)

Nuit de Bakélite (by Isabelle Doyen), the new addition in Naomi Goodsir's already excellent line (website here),  is a “nature” tuberose, that is with no silicones, fluorescent neons, high heels and shiny lips and all the rest we are used to.

Nuit de Bakelite is simple. Linear. Like a perfect, white flower standing on a tall stem, wearing only its truth.

A green, vegetable, damp, slightly smoky fragrance, with a powerful sensuality deriving from being naked and exposed.

The green side of this flower is backed by a bouquet of galbanum, angelica, davana, violet leaves and karo karounde, a natural, green, lush accord with such a strong personality would do the fragrance alone. From this magnificent accord, tuberose emerges in all its raw grace, as a huge amethyst with incredible purple shades, brightening the dark of night with an iridescent glow emanating from the inside outward.

The support structure consists of iris, leather, styrax (benjoin), tobacco and guaiac wood. A warm, dry, balanced set that begins to emerge after an hour from spraying, to stay on the skin for many, many hours.

Neither male nor female, Nuit de Bakélite is a fragrance with a crazy diffusive power: it is able to create a huge scented bubble around those who wear it. A translucent bubble, indeed, inviting others to approach and make compliments (personally tested).

So far, Nuit de Bakélite is the only fragrance - along with the Perris extract – that respects the character of the true blossom. It has nothing to do with the plasticized, carnal, fluorescent, medicinal, or hyper sexy tuberose we have been used to for decades by Fracas, Criminelle, Carnal, and all the others, and I really liked that.

Nuit de Bakélite makes obvious that everyone has always given an interpretation of this flower, while this is a portrait from real, a 3D polaroid which so far, perhaps, no one had understood so deeply.

 

Article by Marika Vecchiattini.

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.fr/

 

EVENT AT ARTE PROFUMO, Italy.

Pictures by Virginie Foubert. 

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OLE

FAC

TO

UDINE, SEPTEMBER 2017

GRAIN DE MUSC, Paris.

Article by Denyse Beaulieu. September 2017.

Without Lenin, there would be no Chanel N°5.

The absurd thought occurred to me as I was reading China Miéville’s meticulously researched and brilliantly written October: The Story of the Russian RevolutionConflating the Ten Days that Shook the World[i] with Ernest Beaux’s fifth proposal to Gabrielle Chanel may seem like a bit of a jump. But Beaux wouldn’t have immigrated to France if it hadn’t been for the Bolsheviks. And his contribution to perfumery was, if not an actual revolution, a definite game-changer (unlike the house’s latest offering). Playing with blotters and vials might seem like strumming the balalaika while the world burns, drowns and quakes (has anybody else who grew up during the Cold War been having atomic mushroom nightmares again?). For what it’s worth, this fall I’ll salute the 100th anniversary of Red October with the ten scents that are shaking my world these days.

 

Nuit de Bakélite

by Isabelle Doyen for Naomi Goodsir


For all the delicate, poetic fragrances she composed for Annick Goutal, it’s easy to forget that Isabelle Doyen can also be a badass avant-gardist (as she demonstrates in her nearly impossible to find Les Nez creations). In Nuit de Bakélite, she turns the tuberose -- or rather, the “peduncle that connects the stem to the flower” -- into a mutant plant exuding radioactive sap; a scent-track for Day of the Triffids. Milky-thick at the heart, day-glo green at the edges with an opalescent splash of iris, this non-linear composition has one of the most distinctive signatures I’ve smelled of late. 

http://graindemusc.blogspot.fr/

A WINDOW IN ... Arte Profumo, Udine - Italy

Arte Profumo , Piazza Marconi 6, 33100 Udine, Italy - www.arteprofumo.it

The window display is dedicated to Nuit de Bakélite, according to Olefacto event which took place at Arte Profumo on September 13th, 2017.

UDINE, a charming city - Italy

A FEW DAYS IN NORMANDY, France

From "The Haras national du Pin" also named "The Versailles for horses" built by Louis XIV, (King of France & of Navarre) to "D'une Île" - an incredibly charming countryside hotel; Normandy is always green & restful in summer.

Le Haras national du Pin. http://www.haras-national-du-pin.com/

 

CAFLEUREBON, USA

Neo-Vintage Tuberose Draw - "Tuberose is a bit two-faced. She can be the sauciest floozy in town, all animalic carnality and buttery buxomness. But meet her another day, and she is positively green; potently floral and still something of a seductress,but more Kim Novak than Jane Mansfield. Naomi Goodsir’s Nuit de Bakélite is in a league of her own: the only tuberose I’ve met that has more facets than Elizabeth Taylor’s engagement ring. Alternately crunchy with plant stems, smoky, creamy, rooty, floral; sylvan and urban all at once.  It is tuberose maximus, the distillation of every conceivable aspect of the flower, the ground where it grew, the braceleted hand that cut the blossom, the smoke in the air of the room it now sits in.  It’s the whole kit and caboodle of everything tuberose. And it’s a knockout.

There is, of course, a back story. Nuit de Bakélite’s genesis came about some four years ago when Australian milliner, designer and Creative Director Naomi Goodsir shared her love of vintage 1930s Bakelite jewelry with superstar perfumer Isabelle Doyen. Co-Creative Director, Renaud Coutadaudier, had known perfumer Mme. Doyen for 13 years as a friend, but they had never worked together. The inspiration was sparked, and after a number of iterations during which Coutaudier, Goodsir and Doyen worked closely together, what emerged was a tuberose that turns tuberose on its head, flips it back and whirls it around. Isabelle Doyen describes her singular creation as “tuberose sap, peeled tuberose, tuberose in a cage of green and leather …” It is all those things and more.

If you thought you knew tuberose from Fracas and its buttery buddies, or from the girlish green floral of Estee Lauder Private Collection, Nuit de Bakélite will have you rethinking tuberose’s distinctive charms. The thick dairy lactones of the lounging voluptuary are there, certainly, acknowledging tuberose’s vintage antecedents with a classical spray of white flowers. But so too is the fresh breeze-blown fragrance of young buds, the tuberose as she is just getting out of bed. 

Nuit de Bakélite starts with a crunchy, juicy, clean greenness, uncannily like a fresh lettuce leaf pulled straight from the ground.The crisp verdancy of this top note is quickly joined by pastryish sweetness fromiris and angelica. Kharo karounde, with its citrusy-jasmine bouquet, joins in, opening out the grassiness of the opening and accentuating tuberose’s airier, virginal side.

Then things get a bit smudgy as a waft of smoke adds a kohl-like veil over the intensity of the florals. In the middle stages, rippling layers of resins, white flowers and woods peak through at different moments, making Nuit de Bakélite a sultry floriental one moment, a Sobranie puffing garconne the next.

In reference to its namesake, Nuit de Bakélite has a distinctive plastic note that comes out now. Initially, it is buried beneath the topsoil of woody and smoky notes of the middle stage. But after half an hour or so, it gradually begins to stand out, smelling like a combination of Barbie doll and vintage melamine plates. It adds a quirky, modern quality to a classical composition.

Like your tuberose with cream? Wait till the dry-down. You’ll find that Nuit de Bakélite has gotten in touch with her bad self again, channeling the busty pinups of Technicolor. Now she morphs into a milky vixen almost rosy and custard-like.

Nuit de Bakélite proves for perhaps the first time that tuberose can be just as much a chameleon as narcissus, violet and jasmine. Give her a little time, and this fleshy white flower will perform a striptease that, while showing off her naughty side, brings you also to the unadorned, dewy plant she can be when she chooses. In Nuit de Bakélite’s waning moments, this eccentric tuberose settles down on her chaise lounge, lights a smoke, winks at you through her monocle and beckons you with a crooked finger. You’d be a fool to resist.

Notes include angelica, violet leaf, galbanum, orris, karo karounde, tuberose, leather, davana, styrax, tobacco, labdanum, gaiac wood, everlasting flower, ylang, and woods".

— Lauryn Beer, Senior Editor

An interesting review of Nuit de Bakélite, by Lauryn Beer & Michelyn Camen. July, 2017

http://www.cafleurebon.com/naomi-goodsir-nuit-de-bakelite-isabelle-doyen-2017-new-perfume-review-neo-vintage-tuberose-draw/