Exhibitions

Art, Exhibitions, Fashion, inspiration, Travels

EN PASSANT PAR ... YVES SAINT LAURENT MUSEUM, MARRAKECH

A real pioneer, Yves Saint Laurent was the only fashion designer of his generation to systematically archive his work, beginning with the founding of the couture house. The heritage safeguarded by the foundation is a treasure-trove allowing us to discover the creative universe of Yves Saint Laurent.

https://www.museeyslmarrakech.com/

The French architectural firm, founded and headed by Karl Fournier and Olivier Marty. They have overseen numerous residential and public projects in Morocco, Great Britain and the United States. While studying the couturier’s archives, Studio KO became intrigued by the duality between curved and straight lines, and between loose and precise approaches to cutting fabric. The facade of the building appears as an intersection of cubes with a lace-like covering of bricks, creating patterns that recall the weft and warp of fabric. As with the lining of a couture jacket, the interior is radically different: velvety, smooth and radiant.

The world acclaimed graphic designer, Jean-Marie Mauron known as "Cassandre" (1901 - 1968) designed the emblematic logo YSL.

Photos by Mr R.

Art, Exhibitions, Fashion

TEXTILE SCULPTURES, PARIS

A dear friend & textile artisan took me to an exhibition in Paris at The Chapelle Expiatoire. It was amazing to discover such a talented textile artist as Simone Pheulpin. 

Born in 1941, Simone Pheulpin is a French textile sculptor who lives and works in the Vosges. Her works are the result of an instinctive expression that uses both the suppleness and firmness of an untreated, natural material, a simple non-bleached cotton. From her fabric strips and thousands of pins, a veritable vocabulary of forms and shapes with an organic allure, a supernatural world where surprising rocks and the seabed take form, sprung from her spirit and guided by her hands.

Simone Pheulpin was selected for Craft Prize 2018 of the Foundation Loewe.She's the only french artist on the list of 30 finalists from 86 countries on 5 continents.

Art, Event, Exhibitions, Fashion, Travels

FASHIONED FROM NATURE

The first UK exhibition to explore the complex relationship between fashion and nature from 1600 to the present day.

VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM, London

Great egret (Ardea alba) feather plumes. Possibly retailed by Galeries Lafayette Paris, 1880-1914. Collection of Dr Pat Morris.

'Bird-witched' shoes. Masaya Kushino (Japan, 2014) - Nile crocodile, gilded metal and cockerel (Gallus gallus domesticus) feathers.

An exhibition at The Victoria and Albert Museum, London until Sunday, 27th January 2019. www.vam.ac.uk

 'In Situ' performance 'Hair to Hair' by one of our friends visiting the exhibition.

'In Situ' performance 'Hair to Hair' by one of our friends visiting the exhibition.

Event, Exhibitions, Parfums

NEZ, THE OLFACTORY MAGAZINE, Dubai

Exhibition at The Scent, Dubai. "30 niche perfumes you have to try before you die" including our latest perfume by Isabelle Doyen, NUIT DE BAKELITE. Curated and reviewed by NEZ, the olfactory magazine. https://fr-fr.facebook.com/NezTheOlfactoryMagazine/

MISIA - Chanel / TABAC TABOU - Parfum d'Empire / SUPERSTITIOUS - Frédéric Malle / NUIT DE BAKELITE - Naomi Goodsir / MUSC TONKIN - Parfum d'Empire / CUIR D'ANGE - Hermes / MURE & MUSC - L'Artisan Parfumeur / L'OMBRE DANS L'EAU - Diptyque / SABLES - Annick Goutal / NEW YORK - Parfums de Nicolai / FEMINITE DU BOIS - Serge Lutens / AMBRE SULTAN - Serge Lutens / IRIS SILVER MIST - Serge Lutens / L'EAU DU SUD - Annick Goutal / MUSC KOUBLAI KHAN - Serge Lutens / TUBEREUSE CRIMINELLE - Serge Lutens / MITO - Vero Profumo / ABSOLUE POUR LE SOIR - Francis Kurkdjian / DANS TES BRAS - Frédéric Malle / PORTRAIT OF A LADY - Frédéric Malle / BOIS FARINE - L'Artisan Parfumeur / L'ETHER - IUNX / BOIS D'ARGENT - Dior / 2 MAN - Comme Des Garçons / CARNAL FLOWER - Frédéric Malle / SECRETIONS MAGNIFIQUES - Etat Libre d'Orange / DZONGKHA - L'Artisan Parfumeur / JUBILATION 25 - Amouage / LA TREIZIEME HEURE - Cartier / PEAU D'AILLEURS - Starck

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"Nuit de Bakélite - Earthy tuberose. Since 2012 Naomi Goodsir has designed reinterpretations of classic perfumery materials. Her tuberose is just eccentric enough over a mastered vintage chypre structure" - Nez Magazine, January 2018.

Art, Exhibitions, Fashion, inspiration

FORTUNY AT PALAIS GALLIERA, PARIS

GOODSIR-PARIS-16.jpg

A SPANIARD IN VENICE

Mariano Fortuny

Mariano Fortuny y Madrazo (1871-1949) was the son of the Spanish painter Mariano Fortuny y Marsal (1838-1874) and, like his father, he started out as a painter. He moved to Venice in 1888 and his name has always been associated with that city. His highly eclectic tastes encompassed engraving, photography, furniture and lighting design, as well as stage design and stage lighting. In 1906, he turned his attentions to fabrics, with his “Knossos scarf” made of silk, printed with motifs inspired by Kamares pottery from the Minoan period. His dress designs liberated the female form. He reinterpreted the styles and motifs of Ancient Greece, the Middle-Ages and the Renaissance, and he created timeless, unwaisted pieces with soft, straight-hanging lines.

http://www.palaisgalliera.paris.fr/

Art, Exhibitions, Travels

LOUISE BOURGEOIS EXHIBITION, New York

Louise Bourgeois: An Unfolding Portrait explores the prints, books, and creative process of the celebrated sculptor Louise Bourgeois (1911–2010). Bourgeois’s printed oeuvre, a little-known aspect of her work, is vast in scope and comprises some 1,200 printed compositions, created primarily in the last two decades of her life but also at the beginning of her career, in the 1940s. The Museum of Modern Art has a prized archive of this material, and the exhibition will highlight works from the collection along with rarely seen loans. A special installation will fill the Museum’s Marron Atrium.

Exhibition "An Unfolding Portrait" through January 28th, 2018 at the Museum of Modern Art https://www.moma.org/

Art, Exhibitions, Fashion, inspiration, Travels

ITEMS : IS FASHION MODERN?

An exhibition at the Museum of Modern Art, NYC till January 28th, 2018. https://www.moma.org/

Thierry Mugler "Little Black Dress", 1981.

Art, Displays, Exhibitions, Parfums

INSOMNIA at Pitti Fragranze, Florence - Italy

"Insomnia" installation, Pitti Fragranze in Florence, 8th September 2017 / 7.00AM

Naomi chose to use an empty space, as a medium, transforming it - in situ, by bringing together lights & objects - her own vision of a ‘nuit blanche’. The space is bought back to a blank canvas … 

Surrealistic techniques of psychic/compulsive writings & drawings from artists, such as Louise Bourgeois’s Insomnia Drawings’ inspired Naomi as a relevant expression of the nocturnal tuberose flower – obsessive, fresh, green, animalistic & addictive.

A few hand made original & unique silicone plants by Tzuri Gueta from ‘Noces Végétales’ are displayed in the suite, as a link to some aspects of the perfume.

Art, Exhibitions, Fashion

EXHIBITION AT PALAZZO PITTI, Florence - Italy

On Tuesday, June 13th, 2017, we were invited to the opening day of the 92nd edition of Pitti Immagine Uomo, Il Museo Effimero della Moda (The Ephemeral Museum of Fashion), produced by the Fondazione Pitti Immagine Discovery in collaboration with the Gallerie degli Uffizi and the Palais Galliera. It was inaugurated in the spaces of the Galleria del Costume of Palazzo Pitti. The exhibition is the second edition in a three-year program promoted by the Centro di Firenze per la Moda Italiana and the Gallerie degli Uffizi and is curated by Olivier Saillard. It will be open until October 22nd, 2017.

'The clothes, punctuating each room’s theme, were brought back to light thanks to the wonderful work done by the restorers of the Galleria del Costume and the Palais Gallieria. They were created by the world’s most prestigious dressmakers and fashion ateliers, from Florence to Rome, Milan, Paris and New York, including the House of Worth; Mariano Fortuny Venice; Rosa Genoni; Atelier Emilio Schubert, Rome; Roberto Capucci, Maison Vionnet; Irene Galitzine, Rome; Elsa Schiaparelli; Jole Veneziani; Biki, Maison romana d'alta moda Carosa, Nina Ricci, Gianfranco Ferré and Christian Lacroix.'

'Contemporary fashions are also well represented with recent acquisitions by the Palais Galliera, shown for the first time here in Florence, and some items from the Palazzo Pitti collection. And the show includes a foray into the world of today’s fashions with selections from the latest collections by Gucci, Margiela, Bless, Fendi, Armani, Valentino, Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, John Galliano and Lanvin.'

Credits: Alessandro Ciampi.

Drinks followed afterwards viewing Boboli Gardens. An incredibly inspiring exhibition ...

Exhibitions, Press, Parfums

CAFLEUREBON, USA

Best Fragrance: NUIT de Bakelite (Naomi Goodsir, Renaud Coutaudier and Isabelle Doyen)- Naomi Goodsir Parfums had a separate suite at the posh Principe di Savoia . All was white, draped and minimalist in contrast with the lush backdrop of the Garden of Eden theme at the Esxence main hall. The avant-garde accessory designer Naomi Goodsir and partner in perfumery, Rene Coutaudier presented NUIT de BAKELITE composed by master perfumer Isabelle Doyen, (who most of our readers know from her work with Annick Goutal).  One of the most talented perfumers and teachers on the planet, you might be familiar with a different side of her oeuvre;for the Swiss company LesNez. Ahead of her time,  I first became familiar with her unconventional daring side in LesNez Turtle Project, threefragrances that showed three very different aspects of vetiver: woody, green and smoky. I mention this because NUIT de Bakelite is a DARING perfume and unlike anything I have smelled in many years.

First, the back story. Renaud met Isabelle 13 years ago, they stayed in touch. Four years ago, Naomi Goodsir shared her love of vintage 1930s bakelite jewelry with Isabelle. Then the process; mod after mod until everyone agreed “this is it”

Master Perfumer Isabelle Doyen and yours truly

I am not usually a fan of tuberose–centric fragrances, but NUIT de BAKELITE is unlike any tuberose I have encountered. It is the bud before the flower opens and becomes the heady queen of the night. It is the roots, the seed, grown in a bio-sphere in another galaxy.  My nose to my wrist, I smell fractured shards of green tuberose, textured and deconstructed. Experimental but classically constructed, with a direct nod to vintage scents as if Fracas had an eccentric distant cousin.  My skin faintly picked up the plastic of the bakelite; most certainly others will, and also find it very green.  The Karo Karounde, a flowering shrub from Africa which has been compared to jasmine adds a 3-d quality to the entire composition and along with the davana was the most prominent on my skin. The longevity was overnight and sillage excellent. Top Notes: galbanum, saffron, angelica root; Heart Notes: Indian Tuberose, Ylang-ylang, davana; Base notes: Karo Karounde, Styrax, Birch tar, Cade, labdanum and musk.

Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief - http://www.cafleurebon.com/

Art, Exhibitions, Travels

SHAY FRISCH / LUMINOUS CONNECTIONS, Milan

Shay Frisch exhibition "Luminous Connections" - Compo 37586_B / N, just ended at the Galleria San Fedele in Milan. A very interesting work based on the transmission of the energy that creates light. The catalogue of the exhibition - Silvana Editoriale -  is available at the Biblioteca San Fedele.

campo 4011_N, 2010 / electrical components

campo 7346_N, 2016 / electrical components

campo 14009_B, 2012 - 2016 / electrical components. Photos by Mr R

Art, Exhibitions, Press

PRESS RELEASE PRESENTATION, Milan

INSTALLATION - « INSOMNIA » at Hotel Principe di Savoia, March 2017

Naomi chose to use a hotel suite as a medium, transforming it - in situ, by dressing the furniture & objects with white cotton fabric - her own vision of a ‘nuit blanche’. The room is bought back to a blank canvas … 

Surrealistic techniques of psychic/compulsive writings & drawings from artists, such as Louise Bourgeois’s Insomnia Drawings’ inspired Naomi as a relevant expression of the nocturnal tuberose flower – obsessive, fresh, green, animalistic & addictive.

A few hand made original & unique silicone plants by Tzuri Gueta from ‘Noces Végétales’ are displayed in the suite, as a link to some aspects of the perfume.

Art, Exhibitions

L'ART POUR L'ART, Henri Olivier

"Walk through shadows" by Henri Olivier.  The Musée Marc Chagall, in Nice invites Henri Olivier to show his work in the museum's indoor and outdoor spaces. Influenced by American minimalism and Arte Povera, his installations serve as a poetic interpretation of the space designed to showcase Marc Chagall work : a building built by André Hermant in 1973, surrounded by Mediterranean gardens designed by Henri Fisch. Exhibition till April 30th, 2017.

Henri Olivier, The shadow of the olive tree, 2017. Olive tree, pot, still & inox.

"What would be a landscape be without shadow? The olive trees are casting their shadows into the space, transcribed via a black silhouette on the floor and wall". Henri Olivier

Synapses - "Objects aren't there so much to be contemplated as they are to create links between shadow, reflection and echo: inside or outside, close up or far away, before and after... " Henri Olivier

Henri Olivier, Synapse XI, 2017 - Charred olive tree stumps, neon.

Mur Mur - "There's always a wall to stop us in our tracks ! We may as well finish the job, seal up with lead and close off all escape routes ? And yes this is where things begin." Henri Olivier

Henri Olivier, Mur Mur, 2017 - Lead wall.