Parfums

magazine, Parfums, press, Review

HOW TO SPEND IT, UK

The smoky aromas of bonfires, roasted chestnuts, frankincense and lapsang souchong tea are among the most complex, and I know quite a few individuals who fantasise about a fragrance that smells like a charcoal-grilled steak. There is a difference, however, between enjoying a scent in its proper context – charred ribeye at a barbecue or burning leaves in an autumnal park – and wearing a fragrance that reprises such odours. For this reason, the perfumery interpretations of smoke tend to blend it into a more familiar setting of woods, spices and resins.

One of the best introductions to a smoky perfume is L’Artisan Parfumeur’s Passage d’Enfer (£105 for 100ml EDT). Perfumer Olivia Giacobetti is known for her ability to create olfactory watercolours – airy, transparent compositions. Passage d’Enfer combines lilies and incense, filling the spaces between the white, cool petals with smoke. Giacobetti’s touch is light, and the perfume remains soft and radiant, from the smoky opening to the vanilla- and cedarwood-accented drydown.

I would be remiss if I didn’t mention another delicate and smoky perfume created by Giacobetti for Hôtel Costes in Paris. Capturing the idea of woods and velvet, the perfumer composed a sandalwood and rose fragrance laced with incense. Hôtel Costes Splash (€110 for 125ml EDT) proves that smoke can be glamorous as well as intriguing.

Smoky nuances in perfumery aren’t new, and classics like Chanel’s Cuir de Russie (£150 for 75ml EDP), Guerlain’s Shalimar (£99 for 90ml EDP) or Molinard’s Habanita (€94 for 75ml EDP) have flirted with the smouldering inflections of frankincense, benzoin or amber. What makes the modern smoky fragrances different is their boldness. Naomi Goodsir’s Bois d'Ascèse (€140 for 50ml EDP) doesn’t hold back on dramatic materials like birch tar, leather and incense, and the effect is striking. The fragrance smells smoky, but it’s so cleverly balanced that wearing it is no different from enjoying a classical woody oriental blend, albeit one with more verve.

Those who indeed want to smell of charcoal and tar can have their wish granted by Comme des Garçons’ Black (£80 for 100ml EDT). The name doesn’t lie. It’s a dark perfume that evokes charred woods, crushed black pepper and tanned leather. The first time I wore it, I was shocked, because I didn’t expect such an explosive effect – and so much smoke out of a bottle. The fragrance turned out to be addictive, however, and I’ve grown to enjoy the potent opening and the unexpectedly tender and warm drydown. It transpired that perfumer Guillaume Flavigny used a gingerbread accent to round out the edges of Black, thus making smoke smell sweet.

HOW TO SPEND IT

Article by Victoria Frolova, December 2018.

Art, Exhibitions, Installation, Parfums

PITTI FRAGRANZE INSTALLATION, FLORENCE

Our latest “surreal” installation at Pitti Fragranze dedicated to our “new dress code” …

Parfums, Press, Event, Art, Book

A SCENTED WORLD BY CLAIRE BINGHAM

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" This extensive volume delves into the world of fragrances - the iconic brands and the creative minds behind the most fabulous perfumes. Fascinating interviews with perfumers reveal their inspiration and explore topics such as signature scents. Try to describe a smell without thinking back to a place and time and it's impossible not o have all five senses come into play. Scent is immersed in our lives. It conjures up memories of travels and temperatures, feelings about people and things. Fragrance transports you and can make your heart skip a beat" .

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 A Scented World by author and design journalist Claire Bingham, we step inside the cradle of haute parfumerie and meet the talented aesthetes of the industry who are creating the most soothing and tantalizing scents for our olfactory receptors. Where does the future of fragrance lie? How does the creation of a new scent begin? How do you capture the essence of a moment and release it upon a person's skin? Combining art and science, a perfumer's philosophy is built on a passion for naturals and intuition. These fragrance heroes have the talent to take something every day and with a unique blend of ingredients, craft it into something exquisite. This book steps into the lives of the modern perfume elite and explores the environments where the magic takes place.

 
 
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About the author - Claire Bingham is an interiors journalist who writes about design, travel, and style for several publications worldwide. Before becoming an author, including the teNeues books Modern Living and A beautiful Mess, she was the Home Editor for Elle Decoration U.K. and her insightful work has been featured in international glossies, including Vogue Living and Architectural Digest. Scouring the globe for inspiring interiors and discovering the talents behind the scenes, she ultimately writes about homes full of character-be it modern-day glamour or old world, disheveled charm.

 

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http://clairebingham.com/

Chris Tubbs Photography ©

Published by www.teneues.com

Special thanks to Claire Bingham, Chris Tubbs & Olivier Maure from Art et parfum

Parfums, Press

SWITCH MAGAZINE, ITALY

 

Switch Magazine, July 2018 issue.                                                                                            Article by Giuseppina Sanfilippo.                                                                                                switch-magazine.net

Boutiques, News, Parfums

BEHIND THE DOORS OF ... LITCHFIELD, VANCOUVER

Our perfumes just landed at Litchfield Store in Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada.

Litchfield is more than a collection of things. The shop reflects founder Jonathon Litchfield’s family aesthetic for living. Life is a series of simple moments and those moments are made beautiful by the tools we use to live. Litchfield’s revolving collection features pieces built with quality and craftsmanship. We want to share our family philosophy of how we live with you. Visiting our store is like stepping into our home.  

Visit Litchfield in Gastown today at 38 Water St., Vancouver, BC or call (604) 428-5880.

www.litchfieldtheshop.com

Art, Award, Event, Parfums

ART AND OLFACTION AWARDS 2018, LONDON

Within the Independent category, Nuit de Bakélite was awarded a Golden Pear.

With just seven awards handed out a year, The Art and Olfaction Award is designed to raise interest and awareness for independent perfumers, artisan perfumers, and experimental practitioners with scent on an international scale. By shining a spotlight on perfumery’s most outstanding creators, we hope to help generate support for independent practices in perfumery as a whole.

The Golden Pears are a program of The Institute for Art and Olfaction a 501(c)3 non-profit organization based in Los Angeles, USA.

Event, Parfums, Award

BEST NICHE FRAGRANCE, FIFI AWARD FRANCE 2018

On April 11th 2018 in Paris, for the first time, an Australian creator has been awarded for a perfume (Experts Award) by The Fragrance Foundation France. « The Best Niche & Independent Brand Fragrance 2018 » was given to Nuit de Bakélite our latest perfume composed by Isabelle Doyen.

We were thrilled to have won.

The FIFI Awards France -  "The Fragrance Foundation's mission is to promote the finest talents and creativity of perfumery; to promote its cultural and artistic values, the expertise of its professions, and to spread the fragrance through various actions within the profession and to the general public. » http://www.fragrancefoundation.fr/

Thank you wonderful Isabelle.

Event, News, Parfums

FIFI AWARDS FRANCE, 2018

Nuit de Bakélite is in the top 6 finalists of the French FIFI Awards for the "Prix des Experts", category Independent niche brand. Nuit de Bakélite is the only non-french perfume and so far the first perfume from an Australian creator ever nominated for such an award. Thank you to Isabelle Doyen for her tremendous talent.

"The Fragrance Foundation's mission is to promote the finest talents and creativity of perfumery; to promote its cultural and artistic values, the expertise of its professions, and to spread the fragrance through various actions within the profession and to the general public."

Boutiques, Event, Parfums

BEHIND THE DOORS OF ... PARFUMS UNIQUES, Munich

We are happy to announce the opening of PARFUMS UNIQUES, MUNICH - Parfums uniques. A new destination of style for perfume connoisseurs. 

"Perfumers’ creations tell stories. The name, the bottle, often hand-painted, every label hand-printed and applied to every single flacon by hand, in small manufactories without large PR- or sales-organisations. Therefore there are only a few outlets. Individuality. Not mass.
With the same meticulous care I have selected our brands. It took time and passion to spot the more exceptional scents and to establish personal contacts.
Apart from presenting extraordinary scents and brands it is my aim to introduce small manufactories whose creations you currently cannot find in Munich. I want to tell stories and open up a new olfactory world.
Many treasures you will only be able to find in our store, in Munich Gärtnerplatz" - Eva Bogner

 

http://www.parfums-uniques.de/

Press, News, Parfumeur, Parfums

STYLIST MAGAZINE, France

" VOTRE BENCH - JANE CAMPION. Parce que le doigt d'Harvey Keitel dans le trou du bas noir d'Holly Hunter dans la Leçon de piano, c'était érotique à vous faire lacérer tout l'inventaire du rayon Wolford. Parce que dans sa série Top of the Lake, ses gonzesses dézinguées par le patriarcat se rebiffent. Parce que Jane Campion n'a jamais flanché dans sa mise à vif des chairs et des âmes féminines, on lui cueille une fleur fatale mise à nu. Tubéreuse décapitée avant d'avoir fait tourner la tête aux vierges, plutôt suc que corolle, à la limite du caoutchouc, cette insomniaque Nuit de Bakélite est l'antithèse des tubéreuses-divas comme Fracas our Carnal Flower. Conçue par des femmes nées comme Jane Campion aux antipodes - la créatrice Naomi Goodsir en Australie, la parfumeuse Isabelle Doyen à Tahiti - Nuit de Bakélite a la beauté crue de celles qui ne veulent plus faire semblant pour plaire. Et ça, c'est ce qu'on peut imaginer de plus dench". Article by Denyse Beaulieu for Stylist Magazine, February 2018.

Event, Exhibitions, Parfums

NEZ, THE OLFACTORY MAGAZINE, Dubai

Exhibition at The Scent, Dubai. "30 niche perfumes you have to try before you die" including our latest perfume by Isabelle Doyen, NUIT DE BAKELITE. Curated and reviewed by NEZ, the olfactory magazine. https://fr-fr.facebook.com/NezTheOlfactoryMagazine/

MISIA - Chanel / TABAC TABOU - Parfum d'Empire / SUPERSTITIOUS - Frédéric Malle / NUIT DE BAKELITE - Naomi Goodsir / MUSC TONKIN - Parfum d'Empire / CUIR D'ANGE - Hermes / MURE & MUSC - L'Artisan Parfumeur / L'OMBRE DANS L'EAU - Diptyque / SABLES - Annick Goutal / NEW YORK - Parfums de Nicolai / FEMINITE DU BOIS - Serge Lutens / AMBRE SULTAN - Serge Lutens / IRIS SILVER MIST - Serge Lutens / L'EAU DU SUD - Annick Goutal / MUSC KOUBLAI KHAN - Serge Lutens / TUBEREUSE CRIMINELLE - Serge Lutens / MITO - Vero Profumo / ABSOLUE POUR LE SOIR - Francis Kurkdjian / DANS TES BRAS - Frédéric Malle / PORTRAIT OF A LADY - Frédéric Malle / BOIS FARINE - L'Artisan Parfumeur / L'ETHER - IUNX / BOIS D'ARGENT - Dior / 2 MAN - Comme Des Garçons / CARNAL FLOWER - Frédéric Malle / SECRETIONS MAGNIFIQUES - Etat Libre d'Orange / DZONGKHA - L'Artisan Parfumeur / JUBILATION 25 - Amouage / LA TREIZIEME HEURE - Cartier / PEAU D'AILLEURS - Starck

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"Nuit de Bakélite - Earthy tuberose. Since 2012 Naomi Goodsir has designed reinterpretations of classic perfumery materials. Her tuberose is just eccentric enough over a mastered vintage chypre structure" - Nez Magazine, January 2018.