A new take on an emblematic ‘pièce de mode’, a cape by Naomi Goodsir for Amanda Harlech & Tim Walker (Vogue Italia Sept.issue 2018). Hand Stitched iridescent green elytra (in black it works as well).
Photos by Mr R.
SOMETIMES, LIFE GIVES YOU A UNIQUE OPPORTUNITY TO CREATE A CUSTOM MADE PIECE FOR SOME INCREDIBLY TALENTED ARTISTS IE: TIM WALKER (PHOTOGRAPHER) & AMANDA HARLECH (STYLIST). NOT EVEN A HAT, BUT A CAPE STITCHED WITH BEETLE WINGS. THANK YOU TIM & AMANDA- BEAUTIFUL!
" This extensive volume delves into the world of fragrances - the iconic brands and the creative minds behind the most fabulous perfumes. Fascinating interviews with perfumers reveal their inspiration and explore topics such as signature scents. Try to describe a smell without thinking back to a place and time and it's impossible not o have all five senses come into play. Scent is immersed in our lives. It conjures up memories of travels and temperatures, feelings about people and things. Fragrance transports you and can make your heart skip a beat" .
A Scented World by author and design journalist Claire Bingham, we step inside the cradle of haute parfumerie and meet the talented aesthetes of the industry who are creating the most soothing and tantalizing scents for our olfactory receptors. Where does the future of fragrance lie? How does the creation of a new scent begin? How do you capture the essence of a moment and release it upon a person's skin? Combining art and science, a perfumer's philosophy is built on a passion for naturals and intuition. These fragrance heroes have the talent to take something every day and with a unique blend of ingredients, craft it into something exquisite. This book steps into the lives of the modern perfume elite and explores the environments where the magic takes place.
About the author - Claire Bingham is an interiors journalist who writes about design, travel, and style for several publications worldwide. Before becoming an author, including the teNeues books Modern Living and A beautiful Mess, she was the Home Editor for Elle Decoration U.K. and her insightful work has been featured in international glossies, including Vogue Living and Architectural Digest. Scouring the globe for inspiring interiors and discovering the talents behind the scenes, she ultimately writes about homes full of character-be it modern-day glamour or old world, disheveled charm.
" VOTRE BENCH - JANE CAMPION. Parce que le doigt d'Harvey Keitel dans le trou du bas noir d'Holly Hunter dans la Leçon de piano, c'était érotique à vous faire lacérer tout l'inventaire du rayon Wolford. Parce que dans sa série Top of the Lake, ses gonzesses dézinguées par le patriarcat se rebiffent. Parce que Jane Campion n'a jamais flanché dans sa mise à vif des chairs et des âmes féminines, on lui cueille une fleur fatale mise à nu. Tubéreuse décapitée avant d'avoir fait tourner la tête aux vierges, plutôt suc que corolle, à la limite du caoutchouc, cette insomniaque Nuit de Bakélite est l'antithèse des tubéreuses-divas comme Fracas our Carnal Flower. Conçue par des femmes nées comme Jane Campion aux antipodes - la créatrice Naomi Goodsir en Australie, la parfumeuse Isabelle Doyen à Tahiti - Nuit de Bakélite a la beauté crue de celles qui ne veulent plus faire semblant pour plaire. Et ça, c'est ce qu'on peut imaginer de plus dench". Article by Denyse Beaulieu for Stylist Magazine, February 2018.
The Top 5 (Perfume of the Year Candidates) by Mark Benhke.
"Naomi Goodsir Nuit de Bakélite - The creative direction of Naomi Goodsir and Renaud Coutaudier matched with the vistuosity of perfumer Isabelle Doyen provided the best tuberose of 2017. Their choice to focus on the green stemmy quality by editing out the flower they found something within which reinvents tuberose".
"I did find out about a fragrance whose name is my new motto: Stay Dench “Dench” being a synonym for “sick” (which means “nice” in English slang), “used for saying that someone or something is extremely attractive, fashionable, impressive, etc.” according to the Macmillan online dictionary. Launched by grime star Lethal Bizzle, the word springs directly from Judi Dench’s unimpeachable badassery. It is now the name of a brand and a fragrance (if you’ve smelled it, please report) for which Dame Judith teamed up with Lethal Bizzle for a first lesson in rap. So I’ll just leave this here before moving on to my favorite launches of 2017".
"So, what made my nose go "Pow!" in 2017?"
"Nuit de Bakélite by Isabelle Doyen for Naomi Goodsir nips tuberose's criminal intentions right in the bud, turning niche's fetish flower into a venomous stem oozing Day-glo sap. One of the year's most striking olfactory signatures" - Denyse Beaulieu.
Best perfume :
"Nuit de Bakélite (Naomi Goodsir, Renaud Coutaudier and Isabelle Doyen)- in a year of many mediocre tuberoses, safe and screechy for the most part, Naomi Goodsir, Renaud Coutaudier and the magnificent Isabelle Doyen created a tuberose very different than any I have encountered. It is the bud before the flower opens and becomes the heady queen of the night. It is the roots, the seed, grown in a bio-sphere in another galaxy. My nose to my wrist, I smell fractured shards of green tuberose, textured and deconstructed. Nuit de Bakélite is a DARING perfume and unlike any tuberose I have smelled in a few years". - Michelyn Camen
Best Creative Director:
"Naomi Goodsir and Renaud Coutaudier for Nuit de Bakélite. I really loved the obsessive interpretation of Tuberose Naomi and Renaud steered with Isabelle Doyen. I also like the connection with Louise Bourgeois and the total white Insomnia project". - Ermano Picco
Posta Magazine, Russia. Quite cool animations, indeed ! Article by Maya Beloglinskaya for Posta Magazine. Animations by Alex Baltsevich.
NUIT DE BAKELITE (Isabelle Doyen 2017)
Nuit de Bakélite (by Isabelle Doyen), the new addition in Naomi Goodsir's already excellent line (website here), is a “nature” tuberose, that is with no silicones, fluorescent neons, high heels and shiny lips and all the rest we are used to.
Nuit de Bakelite is simple. Linear. Like a perfect, white flower standing on a tall stem, wearing only its truth.
A green, vegetable, damp, slightly smoky fragrance, with a powerful sensuality deriving from being naked and exposed.
The green side of this flower is backed by a bouquet of galbanum, angelica, davana, violet leaves and karo karounde, a natural, green, lush accord with such a strong personality would do the fragrance alone. From this magnificent accord, tuberose emerges in all its raw grace, as a huge amethyst with incredible purple shades, brightening the dark of night with an iridescent glow emanating from the inside outward.
The support structure consists of iris, leather, styrax (benjoin), tobacco and guaiac wood. A warm, dry, balanced set that begins to emerge after an hour from spraying, to stay on the skin for many, many hours.
Neither male nor female, Nuit de Bakélite is a fragrance with a crazy diffusive power: it is able to create a huge scented bubble around those who wear it. A translucent bubble, indeed, inviting others to approach and make compliments (personally tested).
So far, Nuit de Bakélite is the only fragrance - along with the Perris extract – that respects the character of the true blossom. It has nothing to do with the plasticized, carnal, fluorescent, medicinal, or hyper sexy tuberose we have been used to for decades by Fracas, Criminelle, Carnal, and all the others, and I really liked that.
Nuit de Bakélite makes obvious that everyone has always given an interpretation of this flower, while this is a portrait from real, a 3D polaroid which so far, perhaps, no one had understood so deeply.
Article by Marika Vecchiattini.
Article by Denyse Beaulieu. September 2017.
Without Lenin, there would be no Chanel N°5.
The absurd thought occurred to me as I was reading China Miéville’s meticulously researched and brilliantly written October: The Story of the Russian Revolution. Conflating the Ten Days that Shook the World[i] with Ernest Beaux’s fifth proposal to Gabrielle Chanel may seem like a bit of a jump. But Beaux wouldn’t have immigrated to France if it hadn’t been for the Bolsheviks. And his contribution to perfumery was, if not an actual revolution, a definite game-changer (unlike the house’s latest offering). Playing with blotters and vials might seem like strumming the balalaika while the world burns, drowns and quakes (has anybody else who grew up during the Cold War been having atomic mushroom nightmares again?). For what it’s worth, this fall I’ll salute the 100th anniversary of Red October with the ten scents that are shaking my world these days.
Nuit de Bakélite
by Isabelle Doyen for Naomi Goodsir
For all the delicate, poetic fragrances she composed for Annick Goutal, it’s easy to forget that Isabelle Doyen can also be a badass avant-gardist (as she demonstrates in her nearly impossible to find Les Nez creations). In Nuit de Bakélite, she turns the tuberose -- or rather, the “peduncle that connects the stem to the flower” -- into a mutant plant exuding radioactive sap; a scent-track for Day of the Triffids. Milky-thick at the heart, day-glo green at the edges with an opalescent splash of iris, this non-linear composition has one of the most distinctive signatures I’ve smelled of late.