Parfums

Boutiques, Event, Parfums

BEHIND THE DOORS OF ... PARFUMS UNIQUES, Munich

We are happy to announce the opening of PARFUMS UNIQUES, MUNICH - Parfums uniques. A new destination of style for perfume connoisseurs. 

"Perfumers’ creations tell stories. The name, the bottle, often hand-painted, every label hand-printed and applied to every single flacon by hand, in small manufactories without large PR- or sales-organisations. Therefore there are only a few outlets. Individuality. Not mass.
With the same meticulous care I have selected our brands. It took time and passion to spot the more exceptional scents and to establish personal contacts.
Apart from presenting extraordinary scents and brands it is my aim to introduce small manufactories whose creations you currently cannot find in Munich. I want to tell stories and open up a new olfactory world.
Many treasures you will only be able to find in our store, in Munich Gärtnerplatz" - Eva Bogner

 

http://www.parfums-uniques.de/

Press, News, Parfumeur, Parfums

STYLIST MAGAZINE, France

" VOTRE BENCH - JANE CAMPION. Parce que le doigt d'Harvey Keitel dans le trou du bas noir d'Holly Hunter dans la Leçon de piano, c'était érotique à vous faire lacérer tout l'inventaire du rayon Wolford. Parce que dans sa série Top of the Lake, ses gonzesses dézinguées par le patriarcat se rebiffent. Parce que Jane Campion n'a jamais flanché dans sa mise à vif des chairs et des âmes féminines, on lui cueille une fleur fatale mise à nu. Tubéreuse décapitée avant d'avoir fait tourner la tête aux vierges, plutôt suc que corolle, à la limite du caoutchouc, cette insomniaque Nuit de Bakélite est l'antithèse des tubéreuses-divas comme Fracas our Carnal Flower. Conçue par des femmes nées comme Jane Campion aux antipodes - la créatrice Naomi Goodsir en Australie, la parfumeuse Isabelle Doyen à Tahiti - Nuit de Bakélite a la beauté crue de celles qui ne veulent plus faire semblant pour plaire. Et ça, c'est ce qu'on peut imaginer de plus dench". Article by Denyse Beaulieu for Stylist Magazine, February 2018.

Event, Exhibitions, Parfums

NEZ, THE OLFACTORY MAGAZINE, Dubai

Exhibition at The Scent, Dubai. "30 niche perfumes you have to try before you die" including our latest perfume by Isabelle Doyen, NUIT DE BAKELITE. Curated and reviewed by NEZ, the olfactory magazine. https://fr-fr.facebook.com/NezTheOlfactoryMagazine/

MISIA - Chanel / TABAC TABOU - Parfum d'Empire / SUPERSTITIOUS - Frédéric Malle / NUIT DE BAKELITE - Naomi Goodsir / MUSC TONKIN - Parfum d'Empire / CUIR D'ANGE - Hermes / MURE & MUSC - L'Artisan Parfumeur / L'OMBRE DANS L'EAU - Diptyque / SABLES - Annick Goutal / NEW YORK - Parfums de Nicolai / FEMINITE DU BOIS - Serge Lutens / AMBRE SULTAN - Serge Lutens / IRIS SILVER MIST - Serge Lutens / L'EAU DU SUD - Annick Goutal / MUSC KOUBLAI KHAN - Serge Lutens / TUBEREUSE CRIMINELLE - Serge Lutens / MITO - Vero Profumo / ABSOLUE POUR LE SOIR - Francis Kurkdjian / DANS TES BRAS - Frédéric Malle / PORTRAIT OF A LADY - Frédéric Malle / BOIS FARINE - L'Artisan Parfumeur / L'ETHER - IUNX / BOIS D'ARGENT - Dior / 2 MAN - Comme Des Garçons / CARNAL FLOWER - Frédéric Malle / SECRETIONS MAGNIFIQUES - Etat Libre d'Orange / DZONGKHA - L'Artisan Parfumeur / JUBILATION 25 - Amouage / LA TREIZIEME HEURE - Cartier / PEAU D'AILLEURS - Starck

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"Nuit de Bakélite - Earthy tuberose. Since 2012 Naomi Goodsir has designed reinterpretations of classic perfumery materials. Her tuberose is just eccentric enough over a mastered vintage chypre structure" - Nez Magazine, January 2018.

Event, inspiration, News, Parfums, Restaurant, Travels

OLFACTIVE DINNER AT NOEL RESTAURANT, Zagreb

The dinner took place at NOEL Michelin awarded restaurant in Zagreb, on December 19th, 2018. Perfume connoisseurs were invited to discover several dishes & cocktails inspired by some perfumes, including Cuir Velours & Or du Sérail. Dinner by Juraj Sotosek Rihtarec, founder of BL'eauOG - Fine perfumes blog. Thank you Juraj.

Credit : Noel restaurant

http://www.noel.hr/en/

https://www.bleauog.com/

News, Parfums, Press, Review

BEST OF 2017 by Colognoisseur

The Top 5 (Perfume of the Year Candidates) by Mark Benhke.

Including ...

"Naomi Goodsir Nuit de Bakélite - The creative direction of Naomi Goodsir and Renaud Coutaudier matched with the vistuosity of perfumer Isabelle Doyen provided the best tuberose of 2017. Their choice to focus on the green stemmy quality by editing out the flower they found something within which reinvents tuberose".

http://colognoisseur.com/colognoisseur-2017-year-end-review-part-3-the-top-25-new-perfumes-of-the-year/

News, Parfumeur, Parfums, Review

THE 10 BEST PERFUMES OF 2017 by Persolaise

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NUIT DE BAKELITE

Article by Dariush Alavi.

"Nuit de Bakélite from Naomi Goodsir (Isabelle Doyen). Just when you thought there was nothing more to be done with tuberose, along came Isabelle Doyen to work her magic and convince you that you were smelling the tempestuous flower for the very first time. Creamy, bitter and green in equal measure, Bakélite was one of the year's undisputed spellbinders".

http://persolaise.blogspot.fr/

News, Parfums, Press, Review

THE 10 DENCHEST SCENTS OF 2017 by Denyse Beaulieu

"I did find out about a fragrance whose name is my new motto: Stay Dench “Dench” being a synonym for “sick” (which means “nice” in English slang), “used for saying that someone or something is extremely attractive, fashionable, impressive, etc.” according to the Macmillan online dictionary. Launched by grime star Lethal Bizzle, the word springs directly from Judi Dench’s unimpeachable badassery. It is now the name of a brand and a fragrance (if you’ve smelled it, please report) for which Dame Judith teamed up with Lethal Bizzle for a first lesson in rap. So I’ll just leave this here before moving on to my favorite launches of 2017".

"So, what made my nose go "Pow!" in 2017?"

"Nuit de Bakélite by Isabelle Doyen for Naomi Goodsir nips tuberose's criminal intentions right in the bud, turning niche's fetish flower into a venomous stem oozing Day-glo sap. One of the year's most striking olfactory signatures" - Denyse Beaulieu.

http://graindemusc.blogspot.fr/

Parfums, Parfumeur, Press, Review

THE BEST OF SCENT 2017, by Cafleurebon.

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Best perfume :

"Nuit de Bakélite (Naomi Goodsir, Renaud Coutaudier and Isabelle Doyen)- in a year of many mediocre tuberoses, safe and screechy for the most part, Naomi Goodsir, Renaud Coutaudier and the magnificent Isabelle Doyen created a tuberose very different than any I have encountered. It is the bud before the flower opens and becomes the heady queen of the night. It is the roots, the seed, grown in a bio-sphere in another galaxy. My nose to my wrist, I smell fractured shards of green tuberose, textured and deconstructed. Nuit de Bakélite is a DARING perfume and unlike any tuberose I have smelled in a few years". - Michelyn Camen

 

Best Creative Director:

"Naomi Goodsir and Renaud Coutaudier for Nuit de Bakélite. I really loved the obsessive interpretation of Tuberose Naomi and Renaud steered with Isabelle Doyen. I also like the connection with Louise Bourgeois and the total white Insomnia project". - Ermano Picco

http://www.cafleurebon.com/

News, Parfums, Press

DIVA MAGAZINE, Croatia

November 2017 issue. Article by Ivo Parac featuring Nuit de Bakélite.

News, Parfumeur, Parfums, Press

BERGAMOTTO & BENZOINO, Italy

 

NUIT DE BAKELITE (Isabelle Doyen 2017)

Nuit de Bakélite (by Isabelle Doyen), the new addition in Naomi Goodsir's already excellent line (website here),  is a “nature” tuberose, that is with no silicones, fluorescent neons, high heels and shiny lips and all the rest we are used to.

Nuit de Bakelite is simple. Linear. Like a perfect, white flower standing on a tall stem, wearing only its truth.

A green, vegetable, damp, slightly smoky fragrance, with a powerful sensuality deriving from being naked and exposed.

The green side of this flower is backed by a bouquet of galbanum, angelica, davana, violet leaves and karo karounde, a natural, green, lush accord with such a strong personality would do the fragrance alone. From this magnificent accord, tuberose emerges in all its raw grace, as a huge amethyst with incredible purple shades, brightening the dark of night with an iridescent glow emanating from the inside outward.

The support structure consists of iris, leather, styrax (benjoin), tobacco and guaiac wood. A warm, dry, balanced set that begins to emerge after an hour from spraying, to stay on the skin for many, many hours.

Neither male nor female, Nuit de Bakélite is a fragrance with a crazy diffusive power: it is able to create a huge scented bubble around those who wear it. A translucent bubble, indeed, inviting others to approach and make compliments (personally tested).

So far, Nuit de Bakélite is the only fragrance - along with the Perris extract – that respects the character of the true blossom. It has nothing to do with the plasticized, carnal, fluorescent, medicinal, or hyper sexy tuberose we have been used to for decades by Fracas, Criminelle, Carnal, and all the others, and I really liked that.

Nuit de Bakélite makes obvious that everyone has always given an interpretation of this flower, while this is a portrait from real, a 3D polaroid which so far, perhaps, no one had understood so deeply.

 

Article by Marika Vecchiattini.

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.fr/

 

Parfums, Press, Review

GRAIN DE MUSC, Paris.

Article by Denyse Beaulieu. September 2017.

Without Lenin, there would be no Chanel N°5.

The absurd thought occurred to me as I was reading China Miéville’s meticulously researched and brilliantly written October: The Story of the Russian RevolutionConflating the Ten Days that Shook the World[i] with Ernest Beaux’s fifth proposal to Gabrielle Chanel may seem like a bit of a jump. But Beaux wouldn’t have immigrated to France if it hadn’t been for the Bolsheviks. And his contribution to perfumery was, if not an actual revolution, a definite game-changer (unlike the house’s latest offering). Playing with blotters and vials might seem like strumming the balalaika while the world burns, drowns and quakes (has anybody else who grew up during the Cold War been having atomic mushroom nightmares again?). For what it’s worth, this fall I’ll salute the 100th anniversary of Red October with the ten scents that are shaking my world these days.

 

Nuit de Bakélite

by Isabelle Doyen for Naomi Goodsir


For all the delicate, poetic fragrances she composed for Annick Goutal, it’s easy to forget that Isabelle Doyen can also be a badass avant-gardist (as she demonstrates in her nearly impossible to find Les Nez creations). In Nuit de Bakélite, she turns the tuberose -- or rather, the “peduncle that connects the stem to the flower” -- into a mutant plant exuding radioactive sap; a scent-track for Day of the Triffids. Milky-thick at the heart, day-glo green at the edges with an opalescent splash of iris, this non-linear composition has one of the most distinctive signatures I’ve smelled of late. 

http://graindemusc.blogspot.fr/