Boutiques, Corpus Equus, Displays, Windows
PARFUMARIJA is a charming perfumery in Dublin (Ireland) where Marija will welcome & advise you. Very few brands but carefully curated.
Marija recently set up a wonderful window display dedicated to Corpus Equus, our latest perfume by Bertrand Duchaufour.
Iris Cendré, Review, Press, Perfume, magazine
I ESCAPE ‘POUR HOMME’ HELL & BROUGHT YOU BACK THESE PERFUMES. Article by Thom Bettridge
IRIS CENDRÉ
Powdery flowers is a scent profile that we’ve been trained to associate with granny perfumes, but in order to free oneself from the shackles of the pour homme universe, one must go there and one must commit. Luckily for the flower-curious, perfumers like Naomi Goodsir are making iris- and violet-led perfumes that turn up with hits of tobacco and a smokiness that is reminiscent of a mouthful of peaty scotch.
From the desk of Highsnobiety Editor-in-Chief Thom Bettridge, The Materialist is an editor’s letter in the form of a treasure hunt. Its mission: to look closer at the products that fascinate us as a way to better understand ourselves and our world — or just to find better stuff. For this special FRONTPAGE edition, we're taking a deep dive into fragrances.
For decades, the world of marketing has accidentally conspired to turn young men off of fragrance.
As a child of the Y2K era, I was introduced to the concept of cologne through the frosted blue abs of Jean Paul Gaultier’s bottle for Le Male. Furthermore, my eardrums will forever be stained by the voice of a phone sex operator moaning “Look at that bod” over a popular and oft-maligned 15-second ad for a product called Bod Man Body Spray. And sometime during my elementary school career, a demented soul invented a thing called Axe. (An aside, but shout out to Axe for disowning whoever took their body spray with them into the US Capitol raid.)
Flash forward to 2021, and cultural evolution in men’s fragrance space has been minimal to nonexistent. Johnny Depp and Dior’s quest to make the most racist commercial of all time might be behind us, but even the luxury end of the pour homme world still seems made for a spectrum of humanity that starts with James Bond and ends with Pauly D. Aftershave. Muscles. Warfare. Suits. Barbershops. Dark blue packaging. The mental universe of cologne marketing embodies everything tragic and obsolete about being a man.
I needed to get introduced to perfume — in particular, the lively and unisex scene of niche perfumers — in order to truly understand the magic of fragrance. With the help of olfactory aesthetes in my life, I learned the joys of reeking like a fist full of jasmine. I embraced traces of roses and oud and peppercorns and the other mysterious aromas that ran around corners in my mind as I tried to identify them. And I walked to bodegas smelling like rare species of tree.
During quarantine, I set off down a deeper and more spiraling rabbit hole, sniffing and wear-testing the nearly 200 perfumes that went into the making of this review. Cloistered in my home office, searching for base notes in my mind’s eye, it came into focus that perfume is not inherently social. To smell good around others is a worthwhile endeavor, but the real fun of fragrance comes with using it as a form of mental travel, to the kinds of faraway places, people, and memories that are uniquely evoked by the olfactory senses.
So, without further ado, here are the finest fruits of my voyage, arranged across the traditional scent-wheel categories of Green, Woody, Spicy-slash-Amber, and Floral.
Avalaible in the US from LUCKYSCENT
SIX GREAT SCENTS FOR SUMMER including NUIT DE BAKÉLITE. Words by Ute Junker. Photos by Evie S/UnSplash + Supplied.
Fashion, magazine, Parfums, press
The endless gray stretch of quarantine has warped time into units previously unknown to me, measuring hours by phantom presences. Perfume—a closetful of it, so many bottles and vials that I can barely shut the door, a reminder of past travels and smiles—has been a faithful companion during this disembodying hover-year. Its mirror: the pulled-down shades and soft dark envelopment of watching films, light flickering off a beat-up laptop, offering respite and another layer of other—real time—pass and melt. In both, vaporous, fickle media, ever-changing, light particles dancing off my face and skin, I surrender myself to their own inner workings, worlds, and pathways—they give my rolling, fretful, nearly-always-bursting-with-question-marks mind a chance to stop, collect itself, drift, play.
Where can my physical body go if it is locked indoors? I can transfer and inhabit, nibble, feed off, empathize, and fall in love with actors and scents, a new one a day, according to my mood. In losing yourself, you get re-embodied. My heart beats with different screens, varied scents. Here is a scattering of stars, ones who have nurtured me and provided escape and pleasure during this year, individualistic women who shine gemlike, inspire and dazzle, with fragrances dreamed and real paired with them.
Collage by Joy Matashi. Fashion Editor : Jared Ellner. Article by KASHINA, NOV. 2020
PEARL CHANG WOULD LOVE THE NOTES OF AMBER IN NUIT DE BAKÉLITE BY NAOMI GOODSIR, ENSCONCED BY THIS DRAMATIC, JEWEL-ENCRUSTED RING BY VALENTINO GARAVANI. SAIRA BANU SUMMONS ADAMEKU BY DI SER, SCENTED WITH MEDICINAL MUSKDANA AND CANTALOUPE, AND THIS EMERALD-EYED, ONYX-NOSED PANTHER RING BY CARTIER.TOP PEARL CHANG IN 'THE SHADOW CHASER' (1973), 'WOLF DEVIL WOMAN' (1982), 'THE WAR OF THE BOUNDARY' (1978) COURTESY OF HONG-KONG MOVIE DATABASE. BOTTOM: COURTESY OF ALAMY.
PEARL CHANG
The Taiwanese martial arts supernova behind the unclassifiable and fantastical Wolf Devil Woman (1982), Pearl Chang was a multi-talented director, writer, producer, star—often all at once. Her extreme energy spiraled in all directions. She tore through her kung fu epics with whirlwind power and lightning-bolt editing, whiplash-inducing battles fought in outrageous jeweled and tasseled headdresses, poles and swords flying through the air. Australian designer Naomi Goodsir has created perfumes as unpredictable, illogical, and daredevil as Pearl—the electric, forked-tongue Nuit de Bakélite, with its livid, shape-shifting, furious green tuberose that lasts for days on the skin. And Bois d’Ascèse and its soilish, dampened-ash scent of dripping caverns, unearthed pu’er tea, gnarled roots, just-plucked feathers with flesh still attached, and spat-out wine. They’re both visceral, wildly inventive scents fit for the untetherable force of nature that is Pearl.
Art, Boutiques, Fashion, inspiration
Kitty Callaghan is a talented Australian artist & photographer who was commissioned by Showroom X to create collages for Cuir Velours & Bois d’Ascèse.
Credits : Kitty Callaghan & Showroom X
@kittycallaghan
@showroom_x_
We are honoured to feature inside the new book NICHE LIFE WITH NICHE PERFUME by journalist Jessica Son Yuan.
Art, design, Event, Exhibitions, Nuit de Bakélite
13 contemporary perfumers, 39 perfumes including Nuit de Bakélite by Isabelle Doyen. A great honour. An exhibition at POWER STATION OF ART in SHANGHAI curated by MUDAC Lausanne from 25.08.19 till 25.10.19. The exhibition “Nez à Nez: Contemporary Perfumers” will be on view at Shanghai Power Station of Design (psD). “Nez à Nez”– which literally translates as “nose to nose” – draws attention to the fact that this is not an exhibition to be “viewed”; instead, one needs to “smell” it. Unlike typical perfume exhibitions, “Nez à Nez” focuses on the creative processes of perfumers themselves. Across a series of interactive installations, “Nez à Nez: Contemporary Perfumers” will present a fresh and fragrant celebration of smell.
According to statistics, there are only about 400 fine perfumers working worldwide, which is remarkably fewer than the number of astronauts. The surprising scarcity of professionals in perfume design reflects the painstaking and challenging work demanded by the industry. Tracing the careers of thirteen individual perfumers, the exhibition will focus on a number of themes: Simplicity, Innovation, Carnality, Mastership, Tradition and Nature. Whilst each perfumer entered the industry fora variety of reasons, they all completed rigorous training and carried out extensive research, learning how to balance ingredients and discover their own individual identities.
Perfume is like a kind of poetry that floats in the air. By awakening people’s sense of smell, a fragrance can evoke powerful memories and inspire new emotions. In order to allow visitors to experience these transient aromas, this exhibition will set perfume free from traditional containers and bottles in an innovative installation that presents fragrance in a new context. By interacting with specially designed fans or soaking up the atmospheric qualities of painted glass, visitors can experience perfume in a completely new light. Through these mysterious instruments and magical smells, we can open up endless imaginary worlds. Design by Studio Glithero.
ABOUT PSA - Established on October 1, 2012, the Power Station of Art (PSA) is the first state-run museum dedicated to contemporary art in mainland China, and is also home to the Shanghai Biennale. Renovated from the former Nanshi Power Plant, the building once hosted the Pavilion of Future during the 2010 Shanghai World Expo. The museum has not only witnessed the city’s vast changes from the industrial age to the IT era, but also provided a rich source of inspiration for artists with its simple yet straightforward architectural style. As a key player in Shanghai’s new urban culture, PSA regards continual innovation and progress as the key to its long-term vitality. The museum has strived to provide an open platform for the public to learn and appreciate contemporary art, by breakingdown the barrier between life and art, and promoting cooperation and knowledge generation between different schools of art and culture.
A very interesting critique, by Olivier David for Au Parfum, about Iris in general and more particularly Iris Cendré by Julien Rasquinet.
magazine, Perfume, press, Bois d'Ascèse
It’s so rare nowadas to find beautfiul, captivating perfume houses. The ones that have soul and some story to tell, but also, and what is most important to me, personality. With Naomi Goodsir Parfums I can feel her personality in every creation because I connect it to the open minded and unique personality, just like she is in real life.
My latest crush is Or du Sérail. I mean, I have 24/7 crushes on her creations because they are simply must-have for all perfume lovers. What is the most magnificent of all, I constantly re-discover creations. As I change, they do change as well. It’s the olfactory magic of artistic approach to the creation. That might be the highest quality of this studio – independent creations with cojones.
Naomi Goodsir is all about uniqueness. Like it was aforementioned, she is Australian creator, designer, that specialized in accessories mostly. Nowadays, you can see beautiful and creative hats signed by her hand, which are truly extravagant, elegant and eternal. It’s the combination of high quality materials with creative touch. The same goes for bags and accessories. If you ever have a chance to meet her in person, don’t miss it.
Uniqueness is translated to scents. Each scent is praised by perfume lovers and have positive notes by perfume critics such as bloggers and journalists. They combine the artistic touch. The latest acclamation came by Art & Olfaction institution that awarded Nuit de Bakélite as the best independent creation last year. If you smell that one, you will have olfactory enlightenment and discover how tuberose can be white and green. One of my favorites, Bois d’Ascèse offers spiritual smoky effect of burnt coal and dark leather. It’s a house to explore, that’s for sure.
Or du Sérail is as intoxicating as crystal eyes lurking in the dark, somewhere in gentleman’s club with Cuban cigar between his fingers and smoke fulfilling the room. In the same time intoxicating sweet tobacco scent arouses and brings irresistible whiffs of it.
Second main component is the miracle from Gods, golden nectar that heals the soul. It is golden honey that makes it sensual, soft, sweet, with generous ambery tones. It’s like sunset somewhere in the desert, where endless sunrays play with heat.
When I first saw les merveilles in Paris, I was amazed with the art of patisserie. It was the scent of delicious, baked sweetness. This perfume reminds me of same, exciting feeling. The intoxicating scent of olfactory art curated by notes of tobacco, golden honey, sweet oriental spices and dried fruits. What a wonderful perfume, the ona that lingers in the air and leaves appealing scent of sweet and innocent seduction.
I would pair this masterpiece by Bertrand Duchafour with Lagavulin 16 YO. It’s the refinement of this Islay heritage that makes it smooth, while richness comes from the combination of oak casks which are well toasted. Lagavulin has the smooth smoky aftertaste that makes you feel sensation of spices and warmness. Exactly the same effect has this perfume. I was serving Lagavulin, dried figs, dried dates, almonds, nuts, cashew and Juan Clemente Dominican cigars to friends when they came over. The air was full of natural Or du Sérail. It’s the magic of this scent that possessed me.
Another motive that I am thinking of is the story of Sinbad. This fierce sailor from Middle East had adventurous life full of unexpected encounters and supranatural places. On his sixth voyage, yet again he is shipwrecked quite violently on the cliffs. He builds a raft and discovers a river running out of a cavern beneath the cliffs. The stream proves to be filled with precious stones and becomes apparent that the island’s streams flow with ambergris. He woke up in the city of Ceylon and discovered that diamonds are in its rivers and pearls in its valleys. He returns to Baghdad with a cup carved from a single ruby, a bed made from the skin of serpent that swallowed an elephant and a slave-gril like a shining moon.
Ceylon, famous for its spices is one of my leitmotivs, while the Oriental warmth gives this ambery, warm, tobacco feeling. Enduring and beautiful.
Or du Sérail is truly like a shining moon. At the moment, I can’t imagine more suitable perfume than this. Enveloping, beautiful, spicy and warm miracle. It makes me go read Thousand and one night stories. Let me know if you were enchanted as I am.
Text & photos by Juraj Sotosek-Rihtarec
inspiration, Parfums, Restaurant
Passing by Crime Passionnel, Hyskenstraede 14.
Christmas time in Tivoli Gardens.
Tivoli Gardens was founded in 1843 and has become a national treasure and an international attraction. Fairy tale writer Hans Christian Andersen visited many times, as did Walt Disney who even found the inspiration to his own Disney World here.
Part of Tivoli Gardens' secret is that there is something for everyone. The scenery is beautiful with exotic architecture, historic buildings and lush gardens. At night, thousands of colored lights create a fairy tale atmosphere that is completely unique.
For a drink/cocktail, we recommend RUBY, an institution in Denmark.
For dinner, try modern Dansish cuisine at the (Michelin rated) restaurant GEMYSE inside Tivoli Gardens
magazine, Parfums, press, Review
The smoky aromas of bonfires, roasted chestnuts, frankincense and lapsang souchong tea are among the most complex, and I know quite a few individuals who fantasise about a fragrance that smells like a charcoal-grilled steak. There is a difference, however, between enjoying a scent in its proper context – charred ribeye at a barbecue or burning leaves in an autumnal park – and wearing a fragrance that reprises such odours. For this reason, the perfumery interpretations of smoke tend to blend it into a more familiar setting of woods, spices and resins.
One of the best introductions to a smoky perfume is L’Artisan Parfumeur’s Passage d’Enfer (£105 for 100ml EDT). Perfumer Olivia Giacobetti is known for her ability to create olfactory watercolours – airy, transparent compositions. Passage d’Enfer combines lilies and incense, filling the spaces between the white, cool petals with smoke. Giacobetti’s touch is light, and the perfume remains soft and radiant, from the smoky opening to the vanilla- and cedarwood-accented drydown.
I would be remiss if I didn’t mention another delicate and smoky perfume created by Giacobetti for Hôtel Costes in Paris. Capturing the idea of woods and velvet, the perfumer composed a sandalwood and rose fragrance laced with incense. Hôtel Costes Splash (€110 for 125ml EDT) proves that smoke can be glamorous as well as intriguing.
Smoky nuances in perfumery aren’t new, and classics like Chanel’s Cuir de Russie (£150 for 75ml EDP), Guerlain’s Shalimar (£99 for 90ml EDP) or Molinard’s Habanita (€94 for 75ml EDP) have flirted with the smouldering inflections of frankincense, benzoin or amber. What makes the modern smoky fragrances different is their boldness. Naomi Goodsir’s Bois d'Ascèse (€140 for 50ml EDP) doesn’t hold back on dramatic materials like birch tar, leather and incense, and the effect is striking. The fragrance smells smoky, but it’s so cleverly balanced that wearing it is no different from enjoying a classical woody oriental blend, albeit one with more verve.
Those who indeed want to smell of charcoal and tar can have their wish granted by Comme des Garçons’ Black (£80 for 100ml EDT). The name doesn’t lie. It’s a dark perfume that evokes charred woods, crushed black pepper and tanned leather. The first time I wore it, I was shocked, because I didn’t expect such an explosive effect – and so much smoke out of a bottle. The fragrance turned out to be addictive, however, and I’ve grown to enjoy the potent opening and the unexpectedly tender and warm drydown. It transpired that perfumer Guillaume Flavigny used a gingerbread accent to round out the edges of Black, thus making smoke smell sweet.
Article by Victoria Frolova, December 2018.
Art, Exhibitions, Installation, Parfums
Our latest “surreal” installation at Pitti Fragranze dedicated to our “new dress code” …
Third award for Nuit de Bakélite in 2018. l’Olfactorama, Paris “Prix de l’Emotion”. It was such a pleasure to collaborate with Isabelle Doyen. Thank you to the Jury.
Since 2012, the mission of Olfactorama is to defend quality perfumery and to position the perfume as a form of artistic expression, a true aesthetic, cultural and social object. Thus, they intend to defend the existence of an activity of "critical olfactory" exerted by the bloggers specialists on their own supports, by the journalists in the written press, but also by the amateurs on the sites, forums and blogs.
Nearly 350 perfumes are evaluated each year to constitute the qualitative reference of the market: the Olfactorama Selection.
To decide between the candidates, the Olfactorama uses an unprecedented evaluation method to evaluate the quality of a perfume in twelve defined criteria.
L’OLFACTORAMA lin
Do not hesitate to visit Bloom Perfumery in London where you will discover our perfumes.
Within the Independent category, Nuit de Bakélite was awarded a Golden Pear.
With just seven awards handed out a year, The Art and Olfaction Award is designed to raise interest and awareness for independent perfumers, artisan perfumers, and experimental practitioners with scent on an international scale. By shining a spotlight on perfumery’s most outstanding creators, we hope to help generate support for independent practices in perfumery as a whole.
The Golden Pears are a program of The Institute for Art and Olfaction a 501(c)3 non-profit organization based in Los Angeles, USA.
Sasch is a new confidential destination worth visiting in Riga - Latvia, for its selection of perfumes, including Naomi Goodsir Parfums. Minimalistic style with a great design touch.
On April 11th 2018 in Paris, for the first time, an Australian creator has been awarded for a perfume (Experts Award) by The Fragrance Foundation France. « The Best Niche & Independent Brand Fragrance 2018 » was given to Nuit de Bakélite our latest perfume composed by Isabelle Doyen.
We were thrilled to have won.
The FIFI Awards France - "The Fragrance Foundation's mission is to promote the finest talents and creativity of perfumery; to promote its cultural and artistic values, the expertise of its professions, and to spread the fragrance through various actions within the profession and to the general public. » http://www.fragrancefoundation.fr/
Thank you wonderful Isabelle.
Motio is an Institut-Concept Store by Chalotte Magniez & a new perfume/beauty destination to discover in Reims (7 rue des Elus), France. You will find all our perfume collection at Motio.
