magazine, Parfums, press, Review

HOW TO SPEND IT, UK

The smoky aromas of bonfires, roasted chestnuts, frankincense and lapsang souchong tea are among the most complex, and I know quite a few individuals who fantasise about a fragrance that smells like a charcoal-grilled steak. There is a difference, however, between enjoying a scent in its proper context – charred ribeye at a barbecue or burning leaves in an autumnal park – and wearing a fragrance that reprises such odours. For this reason, the perfumery interpretations of smoke tend to blend it into a more familiar setting of woods, spices and resins.

One of the best introductions to a smoky perfume is L’Artisan Parfumeur’s Passage d’Enfer (£105 for 100ml EDT). Perfumer Olivia Giacobetti is known for her ability to create olfactory watercolours – airy, transparent compositions. Passage d’Enfer combines lilies and incense, filling the spaces between the white, cool petals with smoke. Giacobetti’s touch is light, and the perfume remains soft and radiant, from the smoky opening to the vanilla- and cedarwood-accented drydown.

I would be remiss if I didn’t mention another delicate and smoky perfume created by Giacobetti for Hôtel Costes in Paris. Capturing the idea of woods and velvet, the perfumer composed a sandalwood and rose fragrance laced with incense. Hôtel Costes Splash (€110 for 125ml EDT) proves that smoke can be glamorous as well as intriguing.

Smoky nuances in perfumery aren’t new, and classics like Chanel’s Cuir de Russie (£150 for 75ml EDP), Guerlain’s Shalimar (£99 for 90ml EDP) or Molinard’s Habanita (€94 for 75ml EDP) have flirted with the smouldering inflections of frankincense, benzoin or amber. What makes the modern smoky fragrances different is their boldness. Naomi Goodsir’s Bois d'Ascèse (€140 for 50ml EDP) doesn’t hold back on dramatic materials like birch tar, leather and incense, and the effect is striking. The fragrance smells smoky, but it’s so cleverly balanced that wearing it is no different from enjoying a classical woody oriental blend, albeit one with more verve.

Those who indeed want to smell of charcoal and tar can have their wish granted by Comme des Garçons’ Black (£80 for 100ml EDT). The name doesn’t lie. It’s a dark perfume that evokes charred woods, crushed black pepper and tanned leather. The first time I wore it, I was shocked, because I didn’t expect such an explosive effect – and so much smoke out of a bottle. The fragrance turned out to be addictive, however, and I’ve grown to enjoy the potent opening and the unexpectedly tender and warm drydown. It transpired that perfumer Guillaume Flavigny used a gingerbread accent to round out the edges of Black, thus making smoke smell sweet.

HOW TO SPEND IT

Article by Victoria Frolova, December 2018.

magazine, Perfume, press

HAIR'S HOW MAGAZINE, RUSSIA

Thank you to HAIR’S HOW MAGAZINE Russia for their interview about Naomi Goodsir, part of an issue dedicated to Australia.

Art, Exhibitions, inspiration

ART TIME - MICHEL BLAZY

“TIMELINE” at the Galerie des Ponchettes in Nice (France), the artist creates an immersive environmental installation like a garden of delights, in which frescoes, ruins ans spontaneous vegetation offer an experience of time. The landscape dreamed up by Michel Blazy reveals what appear to be ancestral frescoes. Dotted with everyday objects - a hard disc, a brick, a pipe, a coat, a bottle - overrun with prolific vegetation, the space appears to belong to another time, like a forgotten ruin. In the center, a heap of coal is overgrown with vegetation, reborn from its ashes. A landscape drawn on an architectural scale like a post-romantic garden of meditation.

Feu, 2017 - Burnt wood, water, spontaneous vegetation.

Coat, 2013/2018 - Coat, spontaneous vegetation, water.

Maple and pipe, 2017 - Maple, pipe, earth.

“TIMELINE” at The Galerie des Ponchettes / MAMAC, Hors des Murs. July 7th /November 4th 2018. 7, Quai des Etats-Unis, Nice - France. www.mamac-nice.org


Collaborations, Event, Fashion, Hat

COLLABORATION LES BAINS X NAOMI GOODSIR

FROM WOOL TO HAT - LE KÉPI.

Made in France by one of the last hat manufacturers labeled ‘Living Heritage Companies (EPV)’. The company takes care of all the manufacturing steps from the Australian Merino wool bundle recognized for its exceptional qualities, to the molding of the hat including the felt cone.

For  “Képi" - inspired by a military hat from the 1900’s, Naomi Goodsir first conceived by hand, a felt shape which was then used to make a custom made hat block.

WHEN THE ICONIC TEMPLE OF PARISIAN NOCTURNAL LIFE, NOW A LUXURY BOUTIQUE-HOTEL MET AN ATYPICAL CREATOR, THE RESULT IS A ‘CHIC-ROCK HAT’ ISSUED FROM FRENCH & DOWN UNDER SAVOIR-FAIRE.

“The Képi” is available in 2 colours - loden green & midnight blue.

La boutique Les Bains - 2 rue du Bourg Labbé 75003 Paris & online at https://laboutique.lesbains-paris.com/fr/

Credits : Naomi Goodsir / Les Bains

Art, Exhibitions, Installation, Parfums

PITTI FRAGRANZE INSTALLATION, FLORENCE

Our latest “surreal” installation at Pitti Fragranze dedicated to our “new dress code” …

Award, Event, Perfume

OLFACTORAMA 2018 PARIS, NUIT DE BAKÉLITE AWARDED

Third award for Nuit de Bakélite in 2018. l’Olfactorama, Paris “Prix de l’Emotion”. It was such a pleasure to collaborate with Isabelle Doyen. Thank you to the Jury.

Since 2012, the mission of Olfactorama is to defend quality perfumery and to position the perfume as a form of artistic expression, a true aesthetic, cultural and social object. Thus, they intend to defend the existence of an activity of "critical olfactory" exerted by the bloggers specialists on their own supports, by the journalists in the written press, but also by the amateurs on the sites, forums and blogs.

Nearly 350 perfumes are evaluated each year to constitute the qualitative reference of the market: the Olfactorama Selection.

To decide between the candidates, the Olfactorama uses an unprecedented evaluation method to evaluate the quality of a perfume in twelve defined criteria.

L’OLFACTORAMA lin

Art, Fashion, inspiration, Press

UNE PIÈCE DE CRÉATEUR, STUDIO MADE

A new take on an emblematic ‘pièce de mode’, a cape by Naomi Goodsir for Amanda Harlech & Tim Walker (Vogue Italia Sept.issue 2018). Hand Stitched iridescent green elytra (in black it works as well).

Photos by Mr R.

Parfums, Press, Event, Art, Book

A SCENTED WORLD BY CLAIRE BINGHAM

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" This extensive volume delves into the world of fragrances - the iconic brands and the creative minds behind the most fabulous perfumes. Fascinating interviews with perfumers reveal their inspiration and explore topics such as signature scents. Try to describe a smell without thinking back to a place and time and it's impossible not o have all five senses come into play. Scent is immersed in our lives. It conjures up memories of travels and temperatures, feelings about people and things. Fragrance transports you and can make your heart skip a beat" .

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 A Scented World by author and design journalist Claire Bingham, we step inside the cradle of haute parfumerie and meet the talented aesthetes of the industry who are creating the most soothing and tantalizing scents for our olfactory receptors. Where does the future of fragrance lie? How does the creation of a new scent begin? How do you capture the essence of a moment and release it upon a person's skin? Combining art and science, a perfumer's philosophy is built on a passion for naturals and intuition. These fragrance heroes have the talent to take something every day and with a unique blend of ingredients, craft it into something exquisite. This book steps into the lives of the modern perfume elite and explores the environments where the magic takes place.

 
 
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About the author - Claire Bingham is an interiors journalist who writes about design, travel, and style for several publications worldwide. Before becoming an author, including the teNeues books Modern Living and A beautiful Mess, she was the Home Editor for Elle Decoration U.K. and her insightful work has been featured in international glossies, including Vogue Living and Architectural Digest. Scouring the globe for inspiring interiors and discovering the talents behind the scenes, she ultimately writes about homes full of character-be it modern-day glamour or old world, disheveled charm.

 

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http://clairebingham.com/

Chris Tubbs Photography ©

Published by www.teneues.com

Special thanks to Claire Bingham, Chris Tubbs & Olivier Maure from Art et parfum

Review, Hotel, Travels

A SECRET RIAD IN MARRAKECH, MOROCCO

There are some places in the world, where you feel that you're stepping back in time. Marrakech is definitely one of them...

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Winston Churchill wrote : “Marrakech is simply the nicest place on Earth to spend an afternoon. Here in these spacious palm groves rising from the desert, the traveller can be sure of perennial sunshine, of every comfort and diversion, and can contemplate with ceaseless satisfaction the stately and snow-clad panoramas of the Atlas Mountains".

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L’Hôtel Marrakech is a privately owned Riad set in the heart of the ‘red city’s’ Medina. L’Hôtel is conveniently close to the vibrant Jemaa El Fna square, the bustling Souk and nearby the 12th century Koutoubia Mosque. This historic 19th century riad, originally the central part of a Caidal palace, comprises five spacious suites surrounding a uniquely wide courtyard garden and swimming pool. This charming retreat combines delicious food, great comfort and service whilst capturing the elegance of hotels of the 1930s. Owned by Jasper Conran, the riad combines superb Moroccan craftsmanship with pieces of antique furniture, textiles, lighting and art from his collection, making it feel more like a home than a hotel.

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Art, Exhibitions, Fashion, inspiration, Travels

EN PASSANT PAR ... YVES SAINT LAURENT MUSEUM, MARRAKECH

A real pioneer, Yves Saint Laurent was the only fashion designer of his generation to systematically archive his work, beginning with the founding of the couture house. The heritage safeguarded by the foundation is a treasure-trove allowing us to discover the creative universe of Yves Saint Laurent.

https://www.museeyslmarrakech.com/

The French architectural firm, founded and headed by Karl Fournier and Olivier Marty. They have overseen numerous residential and public projects in Morocco, Great Britain and the United States. While studying the couturier’s archives, Studio KO became intrigued by the duality between curved and straight lines, and between loose and precise approaches to cutting fabric. The facade of the building appears as an intersection of cubes with a lace-like covering of bricks, creating patterns that recall the weft and warp of fabric. As with the lining of a couture jacket, the interior is radically different: velvety, smooth and radiant.

The world acclaimed graphic designer, Jean-Marie Mauron known as "Cassandre" (1901 - 1968) designed the emblematic logo YSL.

Photos by Mr R.

Hotel, inspiration, Travels

A DAY & A PLACE - HÔTEL DE CRILLON, PARIS

PART 1 - On the way to the Spa & to the Pool.

L’Hôtel de Crillon, A Rosewood Hotel, offers a delicate balance between conservation and transformation – a celebration of the spirit of Paris art de vivre.

Originally built in 1758, Hôtel de Crillon enjoys an unrivalled position overlooking Place de la Concorde. The legendary palace offers a refined and illustrious history, encapsulating the very best France has to offer.

In July 2017, after a major renovation, Hôtel de Crillon reopened offering an incomparable luxury with ecletic, art-driven spaces that culminate in an emotional crescendo …. Elegantly expressing the spirit of Paris.

www.rosewoodhotels.com

Pictures by Mr R.

Parfums, Press

SWITCH MAGAZINE, ITALY

 

Switch Magazine, July 2018 issue.                                                                                            Article by Giuseppina Sanfilippo.                                                                                                switch-magazine.net

Art, Exhibitions, Fashion

TEXTILE SCULPTURES, PARIS

A dear friend & textile artisan took me to an exhibition in Paris at The Chapelle Expiatoire. It was amazing to discover such a talented textile artist as Simone Pheulpin. 

Born in 1941, Simone Pheulpin is a French textile sculptor who lives and works in the Vosges. Her works are the result of an instinctive expression that uses both the suppleness and firmness of an untreated, natural material, a simple non-bleached cotton. From her fabric strips and thousands of pins, a veritable vocabulary of forms and shapes with an organic allure, a supernatural world where surprising rocks and the seabed take form, sprung from her spirit and guided by her hands.

Simone Pheulpin was selected for Craft Prize 2018 of the Foundation Loewe.She's the only french artist on the list of 30 finalists from 86 countries on 5 continents.

EN PASSANT PAR .... YVES SAINT LAURENT MUSEUM, Paris

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INAUGURAL DISPLAY,

In commemoration of the ten-year anniversary of the couturier’s death in Paris on June 1, 2008, the Musée Yves Saint Laurent Paris will pay tribute to him by holding a special exhibition of sixty of his early drawings, exhibited in the museum’s haute couture salons, from May 29 to September 9, 2018. 

Most of these works—drawn by the couturier as a teenager in Oran before his arrival in Paris in September 1954—will be on display for the very first time. They provide unique insight into Saint Laurent’s early years and his passion for literature, theater, ballet, and fashion, making it possible to understand the sources that inspired his future designs. 

Yves Saint Laurent studio.

'Les modes passent, le style est éternel' ,

Yves Saint Laurent.

Musée Yves Saint Laurent, Paris