Boutiques, Corpus Equus, Displays, Windows
PARFUMARIJA is a charming perfumery in Dublin (Ireland) where Marija will welcome & advise you. Very few brands but carefully curated.
Marija recently set up a wonderful window display dedicated to Corpus Equus, our latest perfume by Bertrand Duchaufour.
Interview, magazine, Parfums, press
Issue #10 PARADE for the 10 years anniversary of CERCLE MAGAZINE, just like our perfumes in September 2022.
Boutiques, Event, Parfums, Press
design, Displays, Parfums, Windows, Corpus Equus
CORPUS EQUUS, our latest perfume by Bertrand Duchaufour, has inspired custom made new window displays, such as NECESSITIES in Antwerp (Belgium), 7 SCENTS in Budapest (Hungary), EMBASSY NICHE PERFUMERY in Lisbon (Portugal), CRIME PASSIONNEL in Copenhagen (Denmark) & MIREM in Mantova (Italy). Thank you to all our partners.
7 SCENTS (Budapest - Hungary)
EMBASSY NICHE PERFUMERY (Lisbon - Portugal)
MIREM (Mantova - Italy)
NECESSITIES (Antwerp - Belgium)
CRIME PASSIONNEL (Copenhagen - Denmark)
architecture, Art, inspiration, Travels
This summer, we had the chance to spend time at Château de Pont-Rilly, in Normandy, France.
The chateau de Pont-Rilly is situated at the end of a magnificent mile long paved avenue. Designed in 1765, by the architect Pierre-Raphaël de Lozon for the Marquis dʼOurville, it is one of the most impressive stately homes in Normandy. The extensive lawns on which donkeys & sheep graze are divided by small canals providing an ideal space for numerous black swans & ducks. Peacocks roam in the gardens where attractive mixed borders blend into the surrounding greenery. The interior of the chateau has remained unchanged since the 18th century : Versailles parquet, exquisite wooden panelling & rare marble fireplaces, in each room, are the perfect setting for antique furniture.
Art, Collaborations, Event, Fashion, Film, inspiration, Nuit de Bakélite
COOL T.M catwalk Spring/Summer 2022 video here
COOL TM was created as an independent, daring, resolutely modern and subversive field of expression, in the image of a world in search of meaning and ethics.
Each piece is a tribute, the desire to transcribe the emotion that transports us when we think of free personalities. Question the beautiful, the genre, the normal, the bizarre, the extravagant, COOL TM is a refuge for those who dare colors, overlays, shiny and truthful pieces.
COOL TM was meant to evoke a jovial and happy debauchery as a celebration of life. An ode to radical, raw and assumed freedom, with rebellious and lascivious silhouettes where men are sensitive, women are strong and free. We are all equal.
Merging rebellion and romance, punk and bohemia, vintage and avant-garde, COOL TM’s message is modern,subversive, and yet universal. Blurring gender lines and staunchly promoting diversity the brand holds up a mirror to a society undergoing major changes.
The Fashiongton Post is a legendary fashion magazine that started it all. Here you will find exclusive interviews with high fashion insiders, beauty & hairstyle trends, model’s diary, photography and illustration works from the world known artists, clothing trends and information on what-to-wear, biographies of noted people in the fashion world.
CERCLE MAGAZINE issue #9. All about flowers, including Iris Cendré by Naomi Goodsir.
Cercle is an independent and thematic french magazine published once a year. Every year, a new issue. Each issue, a new topic. Cercle tries to gather information around one main topic and to propose a support that values contemporary artistic creation, culture and science.
magazine, News, Parfums, press
Iris Cendré, Review, Press, Perfume, magazine
I ESCAPE ‘POUR HOMME’ HELL & BROUGHT YOU BACK THESE PERFUMES. Article by Thom Bettridge
IRIS CENDRÉ
Powdery flowers is a scent profile that we’ve been trained to associate with granny perfumes, but in order to free oneself from the shackles of the pour homme universe, one must go there and one must commit. Luckily for the flower-curious, perfumers like Naomi Goodsir are making iris- and violet-led perfumes that turn up with hits of tobacco and a smokiness that is reminiscent of a mouthful of peaty scotch.
From the desk of Highsnobiety Editor-in-Chief Thom Bettridge, The Materialist is an editor’s letter in the form of a treasure hunt. Its mission: to look closer at the products that fascinate us as a way to better understand ourselves and our world — or just to find better stuff. For this special FRONTPAGE edition, we're taking a deep dive into fragrances.
For decades, the world of marketing has accidentally conspired to turn young men off of fragrance.
As a child of the Y2K era, I was introduced to the concept of cologne through the frosted blue abs of Jean Paul Gaultier’s bottle for Le Male. Furthermore, my eardrums will forever be stained by the voice of a phone sex operator moaning “Look at that bod” over a popular and oft-maligned 15-second ad for a product called Bod Man Body Spray. And sometime during my elementary school career, a demented soul invented a thing called Axe. (An aside, but shout out to Axe for disowning whoever took their body spray with them into the US Capitol raid.)
Flash forward to 2021, and cultural evolution in men’s fragrance space has been minimal to nonexistent. Johnny Depp and Dior’s quest to make the most racist commercial of all time might be behind us, but even the luxury end of the pour homme world still seems made for a spectrum of humanity that starts with James Bond and ends with Pauly D. Aftershave. Muscles. Warfare. Suits. Barbershops. Dark blue packaging. The mental universe of cologne marketing embodies everything tragic and obsolete about being a man.
I needed to get introduced to perfume — in particular, the lively and unisex scene of niche perfumers — in order to truly understand the magic of fragrance. With the help of olfactory aesthetes in my life, I learned the joys of reeking like a fist full of jasmine. I embraced traces of roses and oud and peppercorns and the other mysterious aromas that ran around corners in my mind as I tried to identify them. And I walked to bodegas smelling like rare species of tree.
During quarantine, I set off down a deeper and more spiraling rabbit hole, sniffing and wear-testing the nearly 200 perfumes that went into the making of this review. Cloistered in my home office, searching for base notes in my mind’s eye, it came into focus that perfume is not inherently social. To smell good around others is a worthwhile endeavor, but the real fun of fragrance comes with using it as a form of mental travel, to the kinds of faraway places, people, and memories that are uniquely evoked by the olfactory senses.
So, without further ado, here are the finest fruits of my voyage, arranged across the traditional scent-wheel categories of Green, Woody, Spicy-slash-Amber, and Floral.
Avalaible in the US from LUCKYSCENT
SIX GREAT SCENTS FOR SUMMER including NUIT DE BAKÉLITE. Words by Ute Junker. Photos by Evie S/UnSplash + Supplied.
magazine, Nuit de Bakélite, Parfums, press
7 New fragrances you’ll actually want to gift this Christmas by David Smiedt - December 3rd, 2020
Fashion, magazine, Parfums, press
The endless gray stretch of quarantine has warped time into units previously unknown to me, measuring hours by phantom presences. Perfume—a closetful of it, so many bottles and vials that I can barely shut the door, a reminder of past travels and smiles—has been a faithful companion during this disembodying hover-year. Its mirror: the pulled-down shades and soft dark envelopment of watching films, light flickering off a beat-up laptop, offering respite and another layer of other—real time—pass and melt. In both, vaporous, fickle media, ever-changing, light particles dancing off my face and skin, I surrender myself to their own inner workings, worlds, and pathways—they give my rolling, fretful, nearly-always-bursting-with-question-marks mind a chance to stop, collect itself, drift, play.
Where can my physical body go if it is locked indoors? I can transfer and inhabit, nibble, feed off, empathize, and fall in love with actors and scents, a new one a day, according to my mood. In losing yourself, you get re-embodied. My heart beats with different screens, varied scents. Here is a scattering of stars, ones who have nurtured me and provided escape and pleasure during this year, individualistic women who shine gemlike, inspire and dazzle, with fragrances dreamed and real paired with them.
Collage by Joy Matashi. Fashion Editor : Jared Ellner. Article by KASHINA, NOV. 2020
PEARL CHANG WOULD LOVE THE NOTES OF AMBER IN NUIT DE BAKÉLITE BY NAOMI GOODSIR, ENSCONCED BY THIS DRAMATIC, JEWEL-ENCRUSTED RING BY VALENTINO GARAVANI. SAIRA BANU SUMMONS ADAMEKU BY DI SER, SCENTED WITH MEDICINAL MUSKDANA AND CANTALOUPE, AND THIS EMERALD-EYED, ONYX-NOSED PANTHER RING BY CARTIER.TOP PEARL CHANG IN 'THE SHADOW CHASER' (1973), 'WOLF DEVIL WOMAN' (1982), 'THE WAR OF THE BOUNDARY' (1978) COURTESY OF HONG-KONG MOVIE DATABASE. BOTTOM: COURTESY OF ALAMY.
PEARL CHANG
The Taiwanese martial arts supernova behind the unclassifiable and fantastical Wolf Devil Woman (1982), Pearl Chang was a multi-talented director, writer, producer, star—often all at once. Her extreme energy spiraled in all directions. She tore through her kung fu epics with whirlwind power and lightning-bolt editing, whiplash-inducing battles fought in outrageous jeweled and tasseled headdresses, poles and swords flying through the air. Australian designer Naomi Goodsir has created perfumes as unpredictable, illogical, and daredevil as Pearl—the electric, forked-tongue Nuit de Bakélite, with its livid, shape-shifting, furious green tuberose that lasts for days on the skin. And Bois d’Ascèse and its soilish, dampened-ash scent of dripping caverns, unearthed pu’er tea, gnarled roots, just-plucked feathers with flesh still attached, and spat-out wine. They’re both visceral, wildly inventive scents fit for the untetherable force of nature that is Pearl.
Interview, magazine, Parfums, press
architecture, design, inspiration, magazine
Gabrielle Allam & Brian Hoy are long time friends & talented interior designers, based in Sydney. One of their latest projects featured in BELLE MAGAZINE, November 2020 issue.
Photographer : Anthony Basheer
Art, Boutiques, Fashion, inspiration
Kitty Callaghan is a talented Australian artist & photographer who was commissioned by Showroom X to create collages for Cuir Velours & Bois d’Ascèse.
Credits : Kitty Callaghan & Showroom X
@kittycallaghan
@showroom_x_
inspiration, Interview, magazine, Nuit de Bakélite, Parfumeur
Au Parfum vous propose un dossier qui présente la genèse, le développement et les rouages d’une création olfactive hors normes, Nuit de Bakélite d’Isabelle Doyen pour Naomi Goodsir. Cette série est née de la même envie de décortiquer un parfum unique comme le premier article consacré à L’Heure perdue de Mathilde Laurent pour Cartier.
FULL INTERVIEW & ARTICLE : The Genesis of Nuit de Bakélite
Nobuyoshi Araki, Feast of Angels : Sex Scenes, 1992 (Source : Artsy)
Alberto Giacometti, Fil tendu, 1932 (Source : Kunsthaus Zürich)
Isabelle Doyen, Perfumer - Credit Evgeniya Chudakova for Fragrantica
Isabelle Doyen & Naomi Goodsir, Credit Egobox
Louise Bourgeois, Insomnia, 1996 (Source : The Museum of Modern Art), The Small Hours de la série What is the Shape of this Problem ?, 1999 (Source : Malin Gallery) et Untitled, no. 68 of 220, de la série The Insomnia Drawings, 1995 (Source : The Museum of Modern Art)
Art, Book, Nuit de Bakélite, Perfume
Loin d’être une simple liste, cet ouvrage de référence propose une véritable histoire des parfums, à travers 130 ans de créations.
Jeanne Doré et le collectif Nez ont voulu mettre en lumière les 111 parfums qui comptent, qu’ils soient chefs de file, célébrés ou méconnus, best-sellers ou disparus. Cette nouvelle édition consacre un chapitre aux parfums disparus tout en présentant de nouvelles créations lancées depuis 2017.
De Jicky (1889) à Nuit de Bakélite (2017), cette sélection aussi subjective que passionnée est classée en 7 périodes marquant les grandes transformations de l’industrie. Les textes, sensibles, curieux et didactiques, s’adressent aux experts comme aux profanes, aux jeunes amateurs comme aux grands connaisseurs.
Les Cent onze parfums qu’il faut sentir avant de mourir contribue indiscutablement à l’émergence — tant attendue — d’une culture olfactive exigeante et accessible, indispensable pour mieux sentir et ressentir le monde qui nous entoure.
1880 – 1939 : L’âge d’or de la parfumerie moderne
L’apparition de la synthèse chimique dans les formules des parfumeurs bouleverse leur manière de travailler. Les créations sont alors plus abstraites et artistiques, et parmi elles demeurent des grands chefs d’œuvre comme Jicky, Tabac blond, N°5, Joy…
1940 – 1969 : Des couturiers aux hippies
Entre l’essor des couturiers parfumeurs à partir des années 40 et la vague de fraicheur à la fin des années 60, cette période riche en évolution voit naître de grands succès tels que Femme, Miss Dior, L’Air du temps, Eau sauvage…
1970 – 1979 : Un vent de liberté
La publicité prend plus de place et les parfums de marques de prêt-à-porter font leur apparition. N°19, Rive gauche, Opium, Mûre et Musc, Eau d’orange verte illustrent la diversité olfactive de cette décennie.
1980 – 1989 : Le règne du marketing
Les compositions se font plus puissantes et exubérantes, jouant sur la transgression et l’opulence, à l’image de Poison, Loulou ou Obsession, tandis que la masculinité s’affirme, à l’instar de Kouros ou Bel ami.
1990 – 1999 : Une parfumerie de fin de siècle
Le marché de la parfumerie s’internationalise, de nouvelles tendances olfactives s’imposent, entre fraîcheur purifiante et douceur régressive. L’Eau d’Issey, Angel, Trésor, Le Mâle incarnent la dernière décennie du XXe siècle.
2000 – 2009 : L’éveil de la niche
Alors que les lancements se multiplient, émerge une nouvelle parfumerie indépendante et innovante appelée « la niche ». Flower by Kenzo, For Her, Bois d’argent, Carnal Flower ou encore Terre d’Hermès ont marqué cette période.
2010 – aujourd’hui : Mutations en marche
Tandis que la niche poursuit son essor et intéresse les grands groupes du luxe, les parfums deviennent plus calibrés, stéréotypés, mais de belles créations tirent leur épingle du jeu : Portrait of a Lady, La Panthère, Misia, Cuir d’ange, Nuit de Bakélite…
Nouveau chapitre : Les parfums qu’il aurait fallu sentir avant qu’ils meurent.
Honoured to be included.
Art, design, Fashion, inspiration, magazine, Nuit de Bakélite, Press
Sindroms is a journal of monochrome states of mind, published in print biannually. Curating its content based on specific colours, it investigates them across culture and immerses its readers in the feelings and moods evoked by each colour.
Nuit de Bakélite by perfumer Isabelle Doyen is happy to be part of this evergreen sindrom - Design by Studio Goodsir. Photo by Jean-Michel Sordello
