Photos by Mr R.
Photos by Mr R.
Photos by Mr R.
13 contemporary perfumers, 39 perfumes including Nuit de Bakélite by Isabelle Doyen. A great honour. An exhibition by MUDAC Lausanne & Nez la revue from 15.02.19 till 16.06.19. An immersive experience that offers a glimpse into aspects of this applied art form that are often shrouded in secrecy. Here, design serves to elevate the art of perfumery. Perfumers : Marc-Antoine Corticchiato, Isabelle Doyen, Céline Ellena, Jean-Claude Ellena, Rodrigo Flores-Roux, Olivia Giacobetti, Pierre Guillaume, Vero Kern, Patricia de Nicolai, Fabrice Pellegrin, Dominique Ropion, Maurice Roucel, Lorenzo Villoresi. Design by Studio Glithero.
ISABELLE DOYEN - Ninfeo Meo by Goutal Paris (2010) / Turtle Vetiver by Les Nez (2013) / Nuit de Bakélite by Naomi Goodsir (2017).
DOMINIQUE ROPION - Kenzo Jungle by Kenzo (1996) / Alien by Mugler (2005) / Portrait of a Lady by Editions de parfums Frédéric Malle (2010).
MAURICE ROUCEL - Tocade by Rochas (1994) / Insolence by Guerlain (2006) / Musc Ravageur by Editions de parfums Frédéric Malle (2000).
What an honour for Nuit de Bakélite (2017) to be affiliated with: Fracas by Piguet (1948), Giorgio Berverly Hills (1981), Poison by Dior (1985), Tubéreuse Criminelle by Serge Lutens (1998), Carnal Flower by Frédéric Malle (2000).
A graphic point of view. The form implies the function. Simple & chic. Custom design/made by Naomi Goodsir.
Same spirit & custom design/made by Naomi Goodsir. A simple/chic vintage look, a black bakelite cap & “N.G” creator’s initials engraved under the flacon as a signature.
A graphic vision of our scented New Year card by Naomi Goodsir. Artwork by Studio NG.
It’s so rare nowadas to find beautfiul, captivating perfume houses. The ones that have soul and some story to tell, but also, and what is most important to me, personality. With Naomi Goodsir Parfums I can feel her personality in every creation because I connect it to the open minded and unique personality, just like she is in real life.
My latest crush is Or du Sérail. I mean, I have 24/7 crushes on her creations because they are simply must-have for all perfume lovers. What is the most magnificent of all, I constantly re-discover creations. As I change, they do change as well. It’s the olfactory magic of artistic approach to the creation. That might be the highest quality of this studio – independent creations with cojones.
Naomi Goodsir is all about uniqueness. Like it was aforementioned, she is Australian creator, designer, that specialized in accessories mostly. Nowadays, you can see beautiful and creative hats signed by her hand, which are truly extravagant, elegant and eternal. It’s the combination of high quality materials with creative touch. The same goes for bags and accessories. If you ever have a chance to meet her in person, don’t miss it.
Uniqueness is translated to scents. Each scent is praised by perfume lovers and have positive notes by perfume critics such as bloggers and journalists. They combine the artistic touch. The latest acclamation came by Art & Olfaction institution that awarded Nuit de Bakélite as the best independent creation last year. If you smell that one, you will have olfactory enlightenment and discover how tuberose can be white and green. One of my favorites, Bois d’Ascèse offers spiritual smoky effect of burnt coal and dark leather. It’s a house to explore, that’s for sure.
Or du Sérail is as intoxicating as crystal eyes lurking in the dark, somewhere in gentleman’s club with Cuban cigar between his fingers and smoke fulfilling the room. In the same time intoxicating sweet tobacco scent arouses and brings irresistible whiffs of it.
Second main component is the miracle from Gods, golden nectar that heals the soul. It is golden honey that makes it sensual, soft, sweet, with generous ambery tones. It’s like sunset somewhere in the desert, where endless sunrays play with heat.
When I first saw les merveilles in Paris, I was amazed with the art of patisserie. It was the scent of delicious, baked sweetness. This perfume reminds me of same, exciting feeling. The intoxicating scent of olfactory art curated by notes of tobacco, golden honey, sweet oriental spices and dried fruits. What a wonderful perfume, the ona that lingers in the air and leaves appealing scent of sweet and innocent seduction.
I would pair this masterpiece by Bertrand Duchafour with Lagavulin 16 YO. It’s the refinement of this Islay heritage that makes it smooth, while richness comes from the combination of oak casks which are well toasted. Lagavulin has the smooth smoky aftertaste that makes you feel sensation of spices and warmness. Exactly the same effect has this perfume. I was serving Lagavulin, dried figs, dried dates, almonds, nuts, cashew and Juan Clemente Dominican cigars to friends when they came over. The air was full of natural Or du Sérail. It’s the magic of this scent that possessed me.
Another motive that I am thinking of is the story of Sinbad. This fierce sailor from Middle East had adventurous life full of unexpected encounters and supranatural places. On his sixth voyage, yet again he is shipwrecked quite violently on the cliffs. He builds a raft and discovers a river running out of a cavern beneath the cliffs. The stream proves to be filled with precious stones and becomes apparent that the island’s streams flow with ambergris. He woke up in the city of Ceylon and discovered that diamonds are in its rivers and pearls in its valleys. He returns to Baghdad with a cup carved from a single ruby, a bed made from the skin of serpent that swallowed an elephant and a slave-gril like a shining moon.
Ceylon, famous for its spices is one of my leitmotivs, while the Oriental warmth gives this ambery, warm, tobacco feeling. Enduring and beautiful.
Or du Sérail is truly like a shining moon. At the moment, I can’t imagine more suitable perfume than this. Enveloping, beautiful, spicy and warm miracle. It makes me go read Thousand and one night stories. Let me know if you were enchanted as I am.
Text & photos by Juraj Sotosek-Rihtarec
Passing by Crime Passionnel, Hyskenstraede 14.
Christmas time in Tivoli Gardens.
Tivoli Gardens was founded in 1843 and has become a national treasure and an international attraction. Fairy tale writer Hans Christian Andersen visited many times, as did Walt Disney who even found the inspiration to his own Disney World here.
Part of Tivoli Gardens' secret is that there is something for everyone. The scenery is beautiful with exotic architecture, historic buildings and lush gardens. At night, thousands of colored lights create a fairy tale atmosphere that is completely unique.
For a drink/cocktail, we recommend RUBY, an institution in Denmark.
For dinner, try modern Dansish cuisine at the (Michelin rated) restaurant GEMYSE inside Tivoli Gardens
The smoky aromas of bonfires, roasted chestnuts, frankincense and lapsang souchong tea are among the most complex, and I know quite a few individuals who fantasise about a fragrance that smells like a charcoal-grilled steak. There is a difference, however, between enjoying a scent in its proper context – charred ribeye at a barbecue or burning leaves in an autumnal park – and wearing a fragrance that reprises such odours. For this reason, the perfumery interpretations of smoke tend to blend it into a more familiar setting of woods, spices and resins.
One of the best introductions to a smoky perfume is L’Artisan Parfumeur’s Passage d’Enfer (£105 for 100ml EDT). Perfumer Olivia Giacobetti is known for her ability to create olfactory watercolours – airy, transparent compositions. Passage d’Enfer combines lilies and incense, filling the spaces between the white, cool petals with smoke. Giacobetti’s touch is light, and the perfume remains soft and radiant, from the smoky opening to the vanilla- and cedarwood-accented drydown.
I would be remiss if I didn’t mention another delicate and smoky perfume created by Giacobetti for Hôtel Costes in Paris. Capturing the idea of woods and velvet, the perfumer composed a sandalwood and rose fragrance laced with incense. Hôtel Costes Splash (€110 for 125ml EDT) proves that smoke can be glamorous as well as intriguing.
Smoky nuances in perfumery aren’t new, and classics like Chanel’s Cuir de Russie (£150 for 75ml EDP), Guerlain’s Shalimar (£99 for 90ml EDP) or Molinard’s Habanita (€94 for 75ml EDP) have flirted with the smouldering inflections of frankincense, benzoin or amber. What makes the modern smoky fragrances different is their boldness. Naomi Goodsir’s Bois d'Ascèse (€140 for 50ml EDP) doesn’t hold back on dramatic materials like birch tar, leather and incense, and the effect is striking. The fragrance smells smoky, but it’s so cleverly balanced that wearing it is no different from enjoying a classical woody oriental blend, albeit one with more verve.
Those who indeed want to smell of charcoal and tar can have their wish granted by Comme des Garçons’ Black (£80 for 100ml EDT). The name doesn’t lie. It’s a dark perfume that evokes charred woods, crushed black pepper and tanned leather. The first time I wore it, I was shocked, because I didn’t expect such an explosive effect – and so much smoke out of a bottle. The fragrance turned out to be addictive, however, and I’ve grown to enjoy the potent opening and the unexpectedly tender and warm drydown. It transpired that perfumer Guillaume Flavigny used a gingerbread accent to round out the edges of Black, thus making smoke smell sweet.
Article by Victoria Frolova, December 2018.
“TIMELINE” at the Galerie des Ponchettes in Nice (France), the artist creates an immersive environmental installation like a garden of delights, in which frescoes, ruins ans spontaneous vegetation offer an experience of time. The landscape dreamed up by Michel Blazy reveals what appear to be ancestral frescoes. Dotted with everyday objects - a hard disc, a brick, a pipe, a coat, a bottle - overrun with prolific vegetation, the space appears to belong to another time, like a forgotten ruin. In the center, a heap of coal is overgrown with vegetation, reborn from its ashes. A landscape drawn on an architectural scale like a post-romantic garden of meditation.
Feu, 2017 - Burnt wood, water, spontaneous vegetation.
Coat, 2013/2018 - Coat, spontaneous vegetation, water.
Maple and pipe, 2017 - Maple, pipe, earth.
“TIMELINE” at The Galerie des Ponchettes / MAMAC, Hors des Murs. July 7th /November 4th 2018. 7, Quai des Etats-Unis, Nice - France. www.mamac-nice.org
Made in France by one of the last hat manufacturers labeled ‘Living Heritage Companies (EPV)’. The company takes care of all the manufacturing steps from the Australian Merino wool bundle recognized for its exceptional qualities, to the molding of the hat including the felt cone.
For “Képi" - inspired by a military hat from the 1900’s, Naomi Goodsir first conceived by hand, a felt shape which was then used to make a custom made hat block.
“The Képi” is available in 2 colours - loden green & midnight blue.
La boutique Les Bains - 2 rue du Bourg Labbé 75003 Paris & online at https://laboutique.lesbains-paris.com/fr/
Credits : Naomi Goodsir / Les Bains
It was a pleasure passing by this beautiful Italian city & to introduce our perfumes to Edoardo’s customers. Amuga is a fantastic boutique to discover in Bassano del Grappa. Thank you to all Edoardo’s family.
Our latest “surreal” installation at Pitti Fragranze dedicated to our “new dress code” …
Third award for Nuit de Bakélite in 2018. l’Olfactorama, Paris “Prix de l’Emotion”. It was such a pleasure to collaborate with Isabelle Doyen. Thank you to the Jury.
Since 2012, the mission of Olfactorama is to defend quality perfumery and to position the perfume as a form of artistic expression, a true aesthetic, cultural and social object. Thus, they intend to defend the existence of an activity of "critical olfactory" exerted by the bloggers specialists on their own supports, by the journalists in the written press, but also by the amateurs on the sites, forums and blogs.
Nearly 350 perfumes are evaluated each year to constitute the qualitative reference of the market: the Olfactorama Selection.
To decide between the candidates, the Olfactorama uses an unprecedented evaluation method to evaluate the quality of a perfume in twelve defined criteria.