perfume

Art, design, Event, Exhibitions, Nuit de Bakélite

"NEZ A NEZ" - CONTEMPORARY PERFUMERS AT THE POWER STATION OF ART, SHANGHAI

13 contemporary perfumers, 39 perfumes including Nuit de Bakélite by Isabelle Doyen. A great honour. An exhibition at POWER STATION OF ART in SHANGHAI curated by MUDAC Lausanne from 25.08.19 till 25.10.19. The exhibition “Nez à Nez: Contemporary Perfumers” will be on view at Shanghai Power Station of Design (psD). “Nez à Nez”– which literally translates as “nose to nose” – draws attention to the fact that this is not an exhibition to be “viewed”; instead, one needs to “smell” it. Unlike typical perfume exhibitions, “Nez à Nez” focuses on the creative processes of perfumers themselves. Across a series of interactive installations,  “Nez à Nez: Contemporary Perfumers” will present a fresh and fragrant celebration of smell.

According to statistics, there are only about 400 fine perfumers working worldwide, which is remarkably fewer than the number of astronauts. The surprising scarcity of professionals in perfume design reflects the painstaking and challenging work demanded by the industry. Tracing the careers of thirteen individual perfumers, the exhibition will focus on a number of themes: Simplicity, Innovation, Carnality, Mastership, Tradition and Nature. Whilst each perfumer entered the industry fora variety of reasons, they all completed rigorous training and carried out extensive research, learning how to balance ingredients and discover their own individual identities.

Perfume is like a kind of poetry that floats in the air. By awakening people’s sense of smell, a fragrance can evoke powerful memories and inspire new emotions. In order to allow visitors to experience these transient aromas, this exhibition will set perfume free from traditional containers and bottles in an innovative installation that presents fragrance in a new context. By interacting with specially designed fans or soaking up the atmospheric qualities of painted glass, visitors can experience perfume in a completely new light. Through these mysterious instruments and magical smells, we can open up endless imaginary worlds. Design by Studio Glithero.

ABOUT PSA - Established on October 1, 2012, the Power Station of Art (PSA) is the first state-run museum dedicated to contemporary art in mainland China, and is also home to the Shanghai Biennale. Renovated from the former Nanshi Power Plant, the building once hosted the Pavilion of Future during the 2010 Shanghai World Expo. The museum has not only witnessed the city’s vast changes from the industrial age to the IT era, but also provided a rich source of inspiration for artists with its simple yet straightforward architectural style. As a key player in Shanghai’s new urban culture, PSA regards continual innovation and progress as the key to its long-term vitality. The museum has strived to provide an open platform for the public to learn and appreciate contemporary art, by breakingdown the barrier between life and art, and promoting cooperation and knowledge generation between different schools of art and culture.

POWER STATION OF ART

MUDAC

STUDIO GLITHERO

Parfums, press, Review

OR DU SÉRAIL BY JURAJ SOTOSEK-RIHTAREC

Naomi Goodsir Or du Sérail, Lagavulin & Sinbad’s Seven Seas

Ingenious Australian hat designer moved to France and probably made the best decision in her life – to start making perfumes. I think that her creations overwhelm thousands around the globe because I can’t think how one couldn’t appreciate those, true niche, scents. Vive la globalisation et creative spirit of Naomi Goodsir studio.

It’s so rare nowadas to find beautfiul, captivating perfume houses. The ones that have soul and some story to tell, but also, and what is most important to me, personality. With Naomi Goodsir Parfums I can feel her personality in every creation because I connect it to the open minded and unique personality, just like she is in real life.

My latest crush is Or du Sérail. I mean, I have 24/7 crushes on her creations because they are simply must-have for all perfume lovers. What is the most magnificent of all, I constantly re-discover creations. As I change, they do change as well. It’s the olfactory magic of artistic approach to the creation. That might be the highest quality of this studio – independent creations with cojones.

Extravagant creations

Naomi Goodsir is all about uniqueness. Like it was aforementioned, she is Australian creator, designer, that specialized in accessories mostly. Nowadays, you can see beautiful and creative hats signed by her hand, which are truly extravagant, elegant and eternal. It’s the combination of high quality materials with creative touch. The same goes for bags and accessories. If you ever have a chance to meet her in person, don’t miss it.

Uniqueness is translated to scents. Each scent is praised by perfume lovers and have positive notes by perfume critics such as bloggers and journalists. They combine the artistic touch. The latest acclamation came by Art & Olfaction institution that awarded Nuit de Bakélite as the best independent creation last year. If you smell that one, you will have olfactory enlightenment and discover how tuberose can be white and green. One of my favorites, Bois d’Ascèse offers spiritual smoky effect of burnt coal and dark leather. It’s a house to explore, that’s for sure.

Intoxicating one

Or du Sérail is as intoxicating as crystal eyes lurking in the dark, somewhere in gentleman’s club with Cuban cigar between his fingers and smoke fulfilling the room. In the same time intoxicating sweet tobacco scent arouses and brings irresistible whiffs of it.

Second main component is the miracle from Gods, golden nectar that heals the soul. It is golden honey that makes it sensual, soft, sweet, with generous ambery tones. It’s like sunset somewhere in the desert, where endless sunrays play with heat.

When I first saw les merveilles in Paris, I was amazed with the art of patisserie. It was the scent of delicious, baked sweetness. This perfume reminds me of same, exciting feeling. The intoxicating scent of olfactory art curated by notes of tobacco, golden honey, sweet oriental spices and dried fruits. What a wonderful perfume, the ona that lingers in the air and leaves appealing scent of sweet and innocent seduction.

Sinbad and Lagavulin

I would pair this masterpiece by Bertrand Duchafour with Lagavulin 16 YO. It’s the refinement of this Islay heritage that makes it smooth, while richness comes from the combination of oak casks which are well toasted. Lagavulin has the smooth smoky aftertaste that makes you feel sensation of spices and warmness. Exactly the same effect has this perfume. I was serving Lagavulin, dried figs, dried dates, almonds, nuts, cashew and Juan Clemente Dominican cigars to friends when they came over. The air was full of natural Or du Sérail. It’s the magic of this scent that possessed me.

Another motive that I am thinking of is the story of Sinbad. This fierce sailor from Middle East had adventurous life full of unexpected encounters and supranatural places. On his sixth voyage, yet again he is shipwrecked quite violently on the cliffs. He builds a raft and discovers a river running out of a cavern beneath the cliffs. The stream proves to be filled with precious stones and becomes apparent that the island’s streams flow with ambergris. He woke up in the city of Ceylon and discovered that diamonds are in its rivers and pearls in its valleys. He returns to Baghdad with a cup carved from a single ruby, a bed made from the skin of serpent that swallowed an elephant and a slave-gril like a shining moon.

Ceylon, famous for its spices is one of my leitmotivs, while the Oriental warmth gives this ambery, warm, tobacco feeling. Enduring and beautiful.

Or du Sérail is truly like a shining moon. At the moment, I can’t imagine more suitable perfume than this. Enveloping, beautiful, spicy and warm miracle. It makes me go read Thousand and one night stories. Let me know if you were enchanted as I am.

Text & photos by Juraj Sotosek-Rihtarec

www.bleauog.com

inspiration, Parfums, Restaurant

A FEW DAYS IN COPENHAGEN, DENMARK

Passing by Crime Passionnel, Hyskenstraede 14.

Christmas time in Tivoli Gardens.

Tivoli Gardens was founded in 1843 and has become a national treasure and an international attraction. Fairy tale writer Hans Christian Andersen visited many times, as did Walt Disney who even found the inspiration to his own Disney World here.

Part of Tivoli Gardens' secret is that there is something for everyone. The scenery is beautiful with exotic architecture, historic buildings and lush gardens. At night, thousands of colored lights create a fairy tale atmosphere that is completely unique.

For a drink/cocktail, we recommend RUBY, an institution in Denmark.

For dinner, try modern Dansish cuisine at the (Michelin rated) restaurant GEMYSE inside Tivoli Gardens

magazine, Parfums, press, Review

HOW TO SPEND IT, UK

The smoky aromas of bonfires, roasted chestnuts, frankincense and lapsang souchong tea are among the most complex, and I know quite a few individuals who fantasise about a fragrance that smells like a charcoal-grilled steak. There is a difference, however, between enjoying a scent in its proper context – charred ribeye at a barbecue or burning leaves in an autumnal park – and wearing a fragrance that reprises such odours. For this reason, the perfumery interpretations of smoke tend to blend it into a more familiar setting of woods, spices and resins.

One of the best introductions to a smoky perfume is L’Artisan Parfumeur’s Passage d’Enfer (£105 for 100ml EDT). Perfumer Olivia Giacobetti is known for her ability to create olfactory watercolours – airy, transparent compositions. Passage d’Enfer combines lilies and incense, filling the spaces between the white, cool petals with smoke. Giacobetti’s touch is light, and the perfume remains soft and radiant, from the smoky opening to the vanilla- and cedarwood-accented drydown.

I would be remiss if I didn’t mention another delicate and smoky perfume created by Giacobetti for Hôtel Costes in Paris. Capturing the idea of woods and velvet, the perfumer composed a sandalwood and rose fragrance laced with incense. Hôtel Costes Splash (€110 for 125ml EDT) proves that smoke can be glamorous as well as intriguing.

Smoky nuances in perfumery aren’t new, and classics like Chanel’s Cuir de Russie (£150 for 75ml EDP), Guerlain’s Shalimar (£99 for 90ml EDP) or Molinard’s Habanita (€94 for 75ml EDP) have flirted with the smouldering inflections of frankincense, benzoin or amber. What makes the modern smoky fragrances different is their boldness. Naomi Goodsir’s Bois d'Ascèse (€140 for 50ml EDP) doesn’t hold back on dramatic materials like birch tar, leather and incense, and the effect is striking. The fragrance smells smoky, but it’s so cleverly balanced that wearing it is no different from enjoying a classical woody oriental blend, albeit one with more verve.

Those who indeed want to smell of charcoal and tar can have their wish granted by Comme des Garçons’ Black (£80 for 100ml EDT). The name doesn’t lie. It’s a dark perfume that evokes charred woods, crushed black pepper and tanned leather. The first time I wore it, I was shocked, because I didn’t expect such an explosive effect – and so much smoke out of a bottle. The fragrance turned out to be addictive, however, and I’ve grown to enjoy the potent opening and the unexpectedly tender and warm drydown. It transpired that perfumer Guillaume Flavigny used a gingerbread accent to round out the edges of Black, thus making smoke smell sweet.

HOW TO SPEND IT

Article by Victoria Frolova, December 2018.

Art, Exhibitions, Installation, Parfums

PITTI FRAGRANZE INSTALLATION, FLORENCE

Our latest “surreal” installation at Pitti Fragranze dedicated to our “new dress code” …

Award, Event, Perfume

OLFACTORAMA 2018 PARIS, NUIT DE BAKÉLITE AWARDED

Third award for Nuit de Bakélite in 2018. l’Olfactorama, Paris “Prix de l’Emotion”. It was such a pleasure to collaborate with Isabelle Doyen. Thank you to the Jury.

Since 2012, the mission of Olfactorama is to defend quality perfumery and to position the perfume as a form of artistic expression, a true aesthetic, cultural and social object. Thus, they intend to defend the existence of an activity of "critical olfactory" exerted by the bloggers specialists on their own supports, by the journalists in the written press, but also by the amateurs on the sites, forums and blogs.

Nearly 350 perfumes are evaluated each year to constitute the qualitative reference of the market: the Olfactorama Selection.

To decide between the candidates, the Olfactorama uses an unprecedented evaluation method to evaluate the quality of a perfume in twelve defined criteria.

L’OLFACTORAMA lin

Art, Award, Event, Parfums

ART AND OLFACTION AWARDS 2018, LONDON

Within the Independent category, Nuit de Bakélite was awarded a Golden Pear.

With just seven awards handed out a year, The Art and Olfaction Award is designed to raise interest and awareness for independent perfumers, artisan perfumers, and experimental practitioners with scent on an international scale. By shining a spotlight on perfumery’s most outstanding creators, we hope to help generate support for independent practices in perfumery as a whole.

The Golden Pears are a program of The Institute for Art and Olfaction a 501(c)3 non-profit organization based in Los Angeles, USA.

Event, Parfums, Award

BEST NICHE FRAGRANCE, FIFI AWARD FRANCE 2018

On April 11th 2018 in Paris, for the first time, an Australian creator has been awarded for a perfume (Experts Award) by The Fragrance Foundation France. « The Best Niche & Independent Brand Fragrance 2018 » was given to Nuit de Bakélite our latest perfume composed by Isabelle Doyen.

We were thrilled to have won.

The FIFI Awards France -  "The Fragrance Foundation's mission is to promote the finest talents and creativity of perfumery; to promote its cultural and artistic values, the expertise of its professions, and to spread the fragrance through various actions within the profession and to the general public. » http://www.fragrancefoundation.fr/

Thank you wonderful Isabelle.

Event, News, Parfums

FIFI AWARDS FRANCE, 2018

Nuit de Bakélite is in the top 6 finalists of the French FIFI Awards for the "Prix des Experts", category Independent niche brand. Nuit de Bakélite is the only non-french perfume and so far the first perfume from an Australian creator ever nominated for such an award. Thank you to Isabelle Doyen for her tremendous talent.

"The Fragrance Foundation's mission is to promote the finest talents and creativity of perfumery; to promote its cultural and artistic values, the expertise of its professions, and to spread the fragrance through various actions within the profession and to the general public."

Event, Exhibitions, Parfums

NEZ, THE OLFACTORY MAGAZINE, Dubai

Exhibition at The Scent, Dubai. "30 niche perfumes you have to try before you die" including our latest perfume by Isabelle Doyen, NUIT DE BAKELITE. Curated and reviewed by NEZ, the olfactory magazine. https://fr-fr.facebook.com/NezTheOlfactoryMagazine/

MISIA - Chanel / TABAC TABOU - Parfum d'Empire / SUPERSTITIOUS - Frédéric Malle / NUIT DE BAKELITE - Naomi Goodsir / MUSC TONKIN - Parfum d'Empire / CUIR D'ANGE - Hermes / MURE & MUSC - L'Artisan Parfumeur / L'OMBRE DANS L'EAU - Diptyque / SABLES - Annick Goutal / NEW YORK - Parfums de Nicolai / FEMINITE DU BOIS - Serge Lutens / AMBRE SULTAN - Serge Lutens / IRIS SILVER MIST - Serge Lutens / L'EAU DU SUD - Annick Goutal / MUSC KOUBLAI KHAN - Serge Lutens / TUBEREUSE CRIMINELLE - Serge Lutens / MITO - Vero Profumo / ABSOLUE POUR LE SOIR - Francis Kurkdjian / DANS TES BRAS - Frédéric Malle / PORTRAIT OF A LADY - Frédéric Malle / BOIS FARINE - L'Artisan Parfumeur / L'ETHER - IUNX / BOIS D'ARGENT - Dior / 2 MAN - Comme Des Garçons / CARNAL FLOWER - Frédéric Malle / SECRETIONS MAGNIFIQUES - Etat Libre d'Orange / DZONGKHA - L'Artisan Parfumeur / JUBILATION 25 - Amouage / LA TREIZIEME HEURE - Cartier / PEAU D'AILLEURS - Starck

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"Nuit de Bakélite - Earthy tuberose. Since 2012 Naomi Goodsir has designed reinterpretations of classic perfumery materials. Her tuberose is just eccentric enough over a mastered vintage chypre structure" - Nez Magazine, January 2018.

Event, inspiration, News, Parfums, Restaurant, Travels

OLFACTIVE DINNER AT NOEL RESTAURANT, Zagreb

The dinner took place at NOEL Michelin awarded restaurant in Zagreb, on December 19th, 2018. Perfume connoisseurs were invited to discover several dishes & cocktails inspired by some perfumes, including Cuir Velours & Or du Sérail. Dinner by Juraj Sotosek Rihtarec, founder of BL'eauOG - Fine perfumes blog. Thank you Juraj.

Credit : Noel restaurant

http://www.noel.hr/en/

https://www.bleauog.com/

News, Parfums, Press, Review

BEST OF 2017 by Colognoisseur

The Top 5 (Perfume of the Year Candidates) by Mark Benhke.

Including ...

"Naomi Goodsir Nuit de Bakélite - The creative direction of Naomi Goodsir and Renaud Coutaudier matched with the vistuosity of perfumer Isabelle Doyen provided the best tuberose of 2017. Their choice to focus on the green stemmy quality by editing out the flower they found something within which reinvents tuberose".

http://colognoisseur.com/colognoisseur-2017-year-end-review-part-3-the-top-25-new-perfumes-of-the-year/

News, Parfumeur, Parfums, Review

THE 10 BEST PERFUMES OF 2017 by Persolaise

PERSOLAISE NDB 2.jpg

NUIT DE BAKELITE

Article by Dariush Alavi.

"Nuit de Bakélite from Naomi Goodsir (Isabelle Doyen). Just when you thought there was nothing more to be done with tuberose, along came Isabelle Doyen to work her magic and convince you that you were smelling the tempestuous flower for the very first time. Creamy, bitter and green in equal measure, Bakélite was one of the year's undisputed spellbinders".

http://persolaise.blogspot.fr/

Parfums, Parfumeur, Press, Review

THE BEST OF SCENT 2017, by Cafleurebon.

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Best perfume :

"Nuit de Bakélite (Naomi Goodsir, Renaud Coutaudier and Isabelle Doyen)- in a year of many mediocre tuberoses, safe and screechy for the most part, Naomi Goodsir, Renaud Coutaudier and the magnificent Isabelle Doyen created a tuberose very different than any I have encountered. It is the bud before the flower opens and becomes the heady queen of the night. It is the roots, the seed, grown in a bio-sphere in another galaxy. My nose to my wrist, I smell fractured shards of green tuberose, textured and deconstructed. Nuit de Bakélite is a DARING perfume and unlike any tuberose I have smelled in a few years". - Michelyn Camen

 

Best Creative Director:

"Naomi Goodsir and Renaud Coutaudier for Nuit de Bakélite. I really loved the obsessive interpretation of Tuberose Naomi and Renaud steered with Isabelle Doyen. I also like the connection with Louise Bourgeois and the total white Insomnia project". - Ermano Picco

http://www.cafleurebon.com/