Exhibitions

Art, design, Event, Exhibitions, Nuit de Bakélite

"NEZ A NEZ" - CONTEMPORARY PERFUMERS AT THE POWER STATION OF ART, SHANGHAI

13 contemporary perfumers, 39 perfumes including Nuit de Bakélite by Isabelle Doyen. A great honour. An exhibition at POWER STATION OF ART in SHANGHAI curated by MUDAC Lausanne from 25.08.19 till 25.10.19. The exhibition “Nez à Nez: Contemporary Perfumers” will be on view at Shanghai Power Station of Design (psD). “Nez à Nez”– which literally translates as “nose to nose” – draws attention to the fact that this is not an exhibition to be “viewed”; instead, one needs to “smell” it. Unlike typical perfume exhibitions, “Nez à Nez” focuses on the creative processes of perfumers themselves. Across a series of interactive installations,  “Nez à Nez: Contemporary Perfumers” will present a fresh and fragrant celebration of smell.

According to statistics, there are only about 400 fine perfumers working worldwide, which is remarkably fewer than the number of astronauts. The surprising scarcity of professionals in perfume design reflects the painstaking and challenging work demanded by the industry. Tracing the careers of thirteen individual perfumers, the exhibition will focus on a number of themes: Simplicity, Innovation, Carnality, Mastership, Tradition and Nature. Whilst each perfumer entered the industry fora variety of reasons, they all completed rigorous training and carried out extensive research, learning how to balance ingredients and discover their own individual identities.

Perfume is like a kind of poetry that floats in the air. By awakening people’s sense of smell, a fragrance can evoke powerful memories and inspire new emotions. In order to allow visitors to experience these transient aromas, this exhibition will set perfume free from traditional containers and bottles in an innovative installation that presents fragrance in a new context. By interacting with specially designed fans or soaking up the atmospheric qualities of painted glass, visitors can experience perfume in a completely new light. Through these mysterious instruments and magical smells, we can open up endless imaginary worlds. Design by Studio Glithero.

ABOUT PSA - Established on October 1, 2012, the Power Station of Art (PSA) is the first state-run museum dedicated to contemporary art in mainland China, and is also home to the Shanghai Biennale. Renovated from the former Nanshi Power Plant, the building once hosted the Pavilion of Future during the 2010 Shanghai World Expo. The museum has not only witnessed the city’s vast changes from the industrial age to the IT era, but also provided a rich source of inspiration for artists with its simple yet straightforward architectural style. As a key player in Shanghai’s new urban culture, PSA regards continual innovation and progress as the key to its long-term vitality. The museum has strived to provide an open platform for the public to learn and appreciate contemporary art, by breakingdown the barrier between life and art, and promoting cooperation and knowledge generation between different schools of art and culture.

POWER STATION OF ART

MUDAC

STUDIO GLITHERO

Art, Event, Exhibitions, Fashion, Perfume

CRÈME DE LA CRÈME BY DONATAS ZAZIRKAS, PHOTOGRAPHER

MOPA (Museum of Perfume Art) by Crème de la Crème - Haute Parfumerie, exhibition “Forbidden Ingredients” during ARTVILNIUS’19 - International Contemporary Art Fair in Vilnius, Lithuania.

“Choker” fashion accessory by Naomi Goodsir. Photos by Donatas Zazirkas.

Crème de la Crème

Donatas Zazirkas

ArtVilnius’19

Art, Exhibitions, Installation, Perfume

ARTVILNIUS'19, LITHUANIA

We are happy to announce our participation in ARTVILNIUS’19, Baltic International Contemporary Art Fair from May 30th to June 2nd, 2019 at Exhibition and Congress Centre Litexpo, Vilnius, Lithuania, in partnership with CRÈME DE LA CRÈME - Haute Parfumerie.

ArtVilnius is the only contemporary art fair in Lithuania and the largest art fair in the Eastern Europe region. ArtVilnius, which had its start in 2009, was one of the most important events in the Vilnius – European Capital of Culture project. Over the last eight years the art fair has expanded and become firmly established on the local and international art scene, as well as on the list of must-visit events for art lovers.

This is also confirmed by the statistics. Every year ArtVilnius has over 20,000 visitors, with about 60 art galleries from a dozen or so countries participating ((Belgium, Germany, Estonia, Latvia, Poland, Ukraine, Lithuania, Belarus, the Netherlands, Russia, Italy, and France). The applications of galleries wishing to participate in the art fair are reviewed and selected by a jury made up of art critics and art market experts, thereby ensuring the professionalism of the galleries at the fair.

As the only art fair of its type in the region, it aims to be universally democratic. For this reason, the main objectives of ArtVilnius are not limited to stimulating the art market in the Eastern and Northern Europe region, as well as the presentation of a representative panorama of contemporary art galleries. The fair’s organisers have integrated Vilnius into the system of the most significant centres of contemporary art in Europe and have helped it become a bridge between East and West. The ArtVilnius team has established and continues to develop international contacts with contemporary art museums, institutions, curators, collectors, and journalists.

http://www.artvilnius.com/

http://cremedelacreme.lt/

Art, design, Exhibitions, inspiration

GLASS EXHIBITION AT MUDAC, LAUSANNE - SWITZERLAND

A few selected pieces from MUDAC Musée de Design et d’Arts Appliqués collection. “Verre en scène #6”.

Atelier BL 119. Lanterne 2011 by Grégory Blain & Hervé Dixneuf (France). BLown glass, sand-blasted glass, MDF powder-coated base, electrical system.

Art verrier contemporain - Collection du Mudac.

Ales Vasicek (CZ) - Hemisphere, 2013 - Verre moulée, taillé et poli. Collection du Mudac.

Art, design, Event, Exhibitions, Nuit de Bakélite

"NEZ A NEZ" - CONTEMPORARY PERFUMERS AT MUDAC, LAUSANNE

13 contemporary perfumers, 39 perfumes including Nuit de Bakélite by Isabelle Doyen. A great honour. An exhibition by MUDAC Lausanne & Nez la revue from 15.02.19 till 16.06.19. An immersive experience that offers a glimpse into aspects of this applied art form that are often shrouded in secrecy. Here, design serves to elevate the art of perfumery. Perfumers : Marc-Antoine Corticchiato, Isabelle Doyen, Céline Ellena, Jean-Claude Ellena, Rodrigo Flores-Roux, Olivia Giacobetti, Pierre Guillaume, Vero Kern, Patricia de Nicolai, Fabrice Pellegrin, Dominique Ropion, Maurice Roucel, Lorenzo Villoresi. Design by Studio Glithero.

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ISABELLE DOYEN - Ninfeo Meo by Goutal Paris (2010) / Turtle Vetiver by Les Nez (2013) / Nuit de Bakélite by Naomi Goodsir (2017).

DOMINIQUE ROPION - Kenzo Jungle by Kenzo (1996) / Alien by Mugler (2005) / Portrait of a Lady by Editions de parfums Frédéric Malle (2010).

MAURICE ROUCEL - Tocade by Rochas (1994) / Insolence by Guerlain (2006) / Musc Ravageur by Editions de parfums Frédéric Malle (2000).

What an honour for Nuit de Bakélite (2017) to be affiliated with: Fracas by Piguet (1948), Giorgio Berverly Hills (1981), Poison by Dior (1985), Tubéreuse Criminelle by Serge Lutens (1998), Carnal Flower by Frédéric Malle (2000).

https://mudac.ch/

Art, Exhibitions, inspiration

ART TIME - MICHEL BLAZY

“TIMELINE” at the Galerie des Ponchettes in Nice (France), the artist creates an immersive environmental installation like a garden of delights, in which frescoes, ruins ans spontaneous vegetation offer an experience of time. The landscape dreamed up by Michel Blazy reveals what appear to be ancestral frescoes. Dotted with everyday objects - a hard disc, a brick, a pipe, a coat, a bottle - overrun with prolific vegetation, the space appears to belong to another time, like a forgotten ruin. In the center, a heap of coal is overgrown with vegetation, reborn from its ashes. A landscape drawn on an architectural scale like a post-romantic garden of meditation.

Feu, 2017 - Burnt wood, water, spontaneous vegetation.

Coat, 2013/2018 - Coat, spontaneous vegetation, water.

Maple and pipe, 2017 - Maple, pipe, earth.

“TIMELINE” at The Galerie des Ponchettes / MAMAC, Hors des Murs. July 7th /November 4th 2018. 7, Quai des Etats-Unis, Nice - France. www.mamac-nice.org


Art, Exhibitions, Installation, Parfums

PITTI FRAGRANZE INSTALLATION, FLORENCE

Our latest “surreal” installation at Pitti Fragranze dedicated to our “new dress code” …

Art, Exhibitions, Fashion, inspiration, Travels

EN PASSANT PAR ... YVES SAINT LAURENT MUSEUM, MARRAKECH

A real pioneer, Yves Saint Laurent was the only fashion designer of his generation to systematically archive his work, beginning with the founding of the couture house. The heritage safeguarded by the foundation is a treasure-trove allowing us to discover the creative universe of Yves Saint Laurent.

https://www.museeyslmarrakech.com/

The French architectural firm, founded and headed by Karl Fournier and Olivier Marty. They have overseen numerous residential and public projects in Morocco, Great Britain and the United States. While studying the couturier’s archives, Studio KO became intrigued by the duality between curved and straight lines, and between loose and precise approaches to cutting fabric. The facade of the building appears as an intersection of cubes with a lace-like covering of bricks, creating patterns that recall the weft and warp of fabric. As with the lining of a couture jacket, the interior is radically different: velvety, smooth and radiant.

The world acclaimed graphic designer, Jean-Marie Mauron known as "Cassandre" (1901 - 1968) designed the emblematic logo YSL.

Photos by Mr R.

Art, Exhibitions, Fashion

TEXTILE SCULPTURES, PARIS

A dear friend & textile artisan took me to an exhibition in Paris at The Chapelle Expiatoire. It was amazing to discover such a talented textile artist as Simone Pheulpin. 

Born in 1941, Simone Pheulpin is a French textile sculptor who lives and works in the Vosges. Her works are the result of an instinctive expression that uses both the suppleness and firmness of an untreated, natural material, a simple non-bleached cotton. From her fabric strips and thousands of pins, a veritable vocabulary of forms and shapes with an organic allure, a supernatural world where surprising rocks and the seabed take form, sprung from her spirit and guided by her hands.

Simone Pheulpin was selected for Craft Prize 2018 of the Foundation Loewe.She's the only french artist on the list of 30 finalists from 86 countries on 5 continents.

Art, Event, Exhibitions, Fashion, Travels

FASHIONED FROM NATURE

The first UK exhibition to explore the complex relationship between fashion and nature from 1600 to the present day.

VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM, London

Great egret (Ardea alba) feather plumes. Possibly retailed by Galeries Lafayette Paris, 1880-1914. Collection of Dr Pat Morris.

'Bird-witched' shoes. Masaya Kushino (Japan, 2014) - Nile crocodile, gilded metal and cockerel (Gallus gallus domesticus) feathers.

An exhibition at The Victoria and Albert Museum, London until Sunday, 27th January 2019. www.vam.ac.uk

'In Situ' performance 'Hair to Hair' by one of our friends visiting the exhibition.

'In Situ' performance 'Hair to Hair' by one of our friends visiting the exhibition.

Event, Exhibitions, Parfums

NEZ, THE OLFACTORY MAGAZINE, Dubai

Exhibition at The Scent, Dubai. "30 niche perfumes you have to try before you die" including our latest perfume by Isabelle Doyen, NUIT DE BAKELITE. Curated and reviewed by NEZ, the olfactory magazine. https://fr-fr.facebook.com/NezTheOlfactoryMagazine/

MISIA - Chanel / TABAC TABOU - Parfum d'Empire / SUPERSTITIOUS - Frédéric Malle / NUIT DE BAKELITE - Naomi Goodsir / MUSC TONKIN - Parfum d'Empire / CUIR D'ANGE - Hermes / MURE & MUSC - L'Artisan Parfumeur / L'OMBRE DANS L'EAU - Diptyque / SABLES - Annick Goutal / NEW YORK - Parfums de Nicolai / FEMINITE DU BOIS - Serge Lutens / AMBRE SULTAN - Serge Lutens / IRIS SILVER MIST - Serge Lutens / L'EAU DU SUD - Annick Goutal / MUSC KOUBLAI KHAN - Serge Lutens / TUBEREUSE CRIMINELLE - Serge Lutens / MITO - Vero Profumo / ABSOLUE POUR LE SOIR - Francis Kurkdjian / DANS TES BRAS - Frédéric Malle / PORTRAIT OF A LADY - Frédéric Malle / BOIS FARINE - L'Artisan Parfumeur / L'ETHER - IUNX / BOIS D'ARGENT - Dior / 2 MAN - Comme Des Garçons / CARNAL FLOWER - Frédéric Malle / SECRETIONS MAGNIFIQUES - Etat Libre d'Orange / DZONGKHA - L'Artisan Parfumeur / JUBILATION 25 - Amouage / LA TREIZIEME HEURE - Cartier / PEAU D'AILLEURS - Starck

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"Nuit de Bakélite - Earthy tuberose. Since 2012 Naomi Goodsir has designed reinterpretations of classic perfumery materials. Her tuberose is just eccentric enough over a mastered vintage chypre structure" - Nez Magazine, January 2018.

Art, Exhibitions, Fashion, inspiration

FORTUNY AT PALAIS GALLIERA, PARIS

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A SPANIARD IN VENICE

Mariano Fortuny

Mariano Fortuny y Madrazo (1871-1949) was the son of the Spanish painter Mariano Fortuny y Marsal (1838-1874) and, like his father, he started out as a painter. He moved to Venice in 1888 and his name has always been associated with that city. His highly eclectic tastes encompassed engraving, photography, furniture and lighting design, as well as stage design and stage lighting. In 1906, he turned his attentions to fabrics, with his “Knossos scarf” made of silk, printed with motifs inspired by Kamares pottery from the Minoan period. His dress designs liberated the female form. He reinterpreted the styles and motifs of Ancient Greece, the Middle-Ages and the Renaissance, and he created timeless, unwaisted pieces with soft, straight-hanging lines.

http://www.palaisgalliera.paris.fr/

Art, Exhibitions, Travels

LOUISE BOURGEOIS EXHIBITION, New York

Louise Bourgeois: An Unfolding Portrait explores the prints, books, and creative process of the celebrated sculptor Louise Bourgeois (1911–2010). Bourgeois’s printed oeuvre, a little-known aspect of her work, is vast in scope and comprises some 1,200 printed compositions, created primarily in the last two decades of her life but also at the beginning of her career, in the 1940s. The Museum of Modern Art has a prized archive of this material, and the exhibition will highlight works from the collection along with rarely seen loans. A special installation will fill the Museum’s Marron Atrium.

Exhibition "An Unfolding Portrait" through January 28th, 2018 at the Museum of Modern Art https://www.moma.org/

Art, Exhibitions, Fashion, inspiration, Travels

ITEMS : IS FASHION MODERN?

An exhibition at the Museum of Modern Art, NYC till January 28th, 2018. https://www.moma.org/

Thierry Mugler "Little Black Dress", 1981.

Art, Displays, Exhibitions, Parfums

INSOMNIA at Pitti Fragranze, Florence - Italy

"Insomnia" installation, Pitti Fragranze in Florence, 8th September 2017 / 7.00AM

Naomi chose to use an empty space, as a medium, transforming it - in situ, by bringing together lights & objects - her own vision of a ‘nuit blanche’. The space is bought back to a blank canvas … 

Surrealistic techniques of psychic/compulsive writings & drawings from artists, such as Louise Bourgeois’s Insomnia Drawings’ inspired Naomi as a relevant expression of the nocturnal tuberose flower – obsessive, fresh, green, animalistic & addictive.

A few hand made original & unique silicone plants by Tzuri Gueta from ‘Noces Végétales’ are displayed in the suite, as a link to some aspects of the perfume.

Art, Exhibitions, Fashion

EXHIBITION AT PALAZZO PITTI, Florence - Italy

On Tuesday, June 13th, 2017, we were invited to the opening day of the 92nd edition of Pitti Immagine Uomo, Il Museo Effimero della Moda (The Ephemeral Museum of Fashion), produced by the Fondazione Pitti Immagine Discovery in collaboration with the Gallerie degli Uffizi and the Palais Galliera. It was inaugurated in the spaces of the Galleria del Costume of Palazzo Pitti. The exhibition is the second edition in a three-year program promoted by the Centro di Firenze per la Moda Italiana and the Gallerie degli Uffizi and is curated by Olivier Saillard. It will be open until October 22nd, 2017.

'The clothes, punctuating each room’s theme, were brought back to light thanks to the wonderful work done by the restorers of the Galleria del Costume and the Palais Gallieria. They were created by the world’s most prestigious dressmakers and fashion ateliers, from Florence to Rome, Milan, Paris and New York, including the House of Worth; Mariano Fortuny Venice; Rosa Genoni; Atelier Emilio Schubert, Rome; Roberto Capucci, Maison Vionnet; Irene Galitzine, Rome; Elsa Schiaparelli; Jole Veneziani; Biki, Maison romana d'alta moda Carosa, Nina Ricci, Gianfranco Ferré and Christian Lacroix.'

'Contemporary fashions are also well represented with recent acquisitions by the Palais Galliera, shown for the first time here in Florence, and some items from the Palazzo Pitti collection. And the show includes a foray into the world of today’s fashions with selections from the latest collections by Gucci, Margiela, Bless, Fendi, Armani, Valentino, Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, John Galliano and Lanvin.'

Credits: Alessandro Ciampi.

Drinks followed afterwards viewing Boboli Gardens. An incredibly inspiring exhibition ...

Exhibitions, Press, Parfums

CAFLEUREBON, USA

Best Fragrance: NUIT de Bakelite (Naomi Goodsir, Renaud Coutaudier and Isabelle Doyen)- Naomi Goodsir Parfums had a separate suite at the posh Principe di Savoia . All was white, draped and minimalist in contrast with the lush backdrop of the Garden of Eden theme at the Esxence main hall. The avant-garde accessory designer Naomi Goodsir and partner in perfumery, Rene Coutaudier presented NUIT de BAKELITE composed by master perfumer Isabelle Doyen, (who most of our readers know from her work with Annick Goutal).  One of the most talented perfumers and teachers on the planet, you might be familiar with a different side of her oeuvre;for the Swiss company LesNez. Ahead of her time,  I first became familiar with her unconventional daring side in LesNez Turtle Project, threefragrances that showed three very different aspects of vetiver: woody, green and smoky. I mention this because NUIT de Bakelite is a DARING perfume and unlike anything I have smelled in many years.

First, the back story. Renaud met Isabelle 13 years ago, they stayed in touch. Four years ago, Naomi Goodsir shared her love of vintage 1930s bakelite jewelry with Isabelle. Then the process; mod after mod until everyone agreed “this is it”

Master Perfumer Isabelle Doyen and yours truly

I am not usually a fan of tuberose–centric fragrances, but NUIT de BAKELITE is unlike any tuberose I have encountered. It is the bud before the flower opens and becomes the heady queen of the night. It is the roots, the seed, grown in a bio-sphere in another galaxy.  My nose to my wrist, I smell fractured shards of green tuberose, textured and deconstructed. Experimental but classically constructed, with a direct nod to vintage scents as if Fracas had an eccentric distant cousin.  My skin faintly picked up the plastic of the bakelite; most certainly others will, and also find it very green.  The Karo Karounde, a flowering shrub from Africa which has been compared to jasmine adds a 3-d quality to the entire composition and along with the davana was the most prominent on my skin. The longevity was overnight and sillage excellent. Top Notes: galbanum, saffron, angelica root; Heart Notes: Indian Tuberose, Ylang-ylang, davana; Base notes: Karo Karounde, Styrax, Birch tar, Cade, labdanum and musk.

Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief - http://www.cafleurebon.com/