Hotel, Travels, Scented candle

A LEGENDARY PALACE, PARIS

Naomi Goodsir ·

Originally built in 1758, Hôtel de Crillon enjoys an unrivalled position overlooking Place de la Concorde. The legendary palace offers a refined and illustrious history, encapsulating the very best France has to offer. With its perfectly proportioned, Neoclassical façade and architecture, the hotel was designed to captivate. It has dazzled generations of visitors and played host to some of history’s greatest events. The building has stood through the reigns of two French kings, the French Revolution, the rise and fall of the Napoleonic Empire and the birth of the League of Nations.

In 1758, King Louis XV commissioned the greatest architect of his day, Ange-Jacques Gabriel, to build twin structures overlooking Place de la Concorde. The result was a masterpiece of 18th-century architecture. Behind one of the facades rose a sumptuous private residence decorated by the era’s finest artists and craftsmen. Such are the origins of Hôtel de Crillon, created to host the world’s great ambassadors. Long owned by the illustrious family of the Counts of Crillon, this private mansion was transformed into a luxury palace hotel in 1909 under the impulse of architect Walter-André Destailleur.

Renovating a National Treasure

In March 2013, Hôtel de Crillon closed its doors to embark on a major renovation to further enhance the majesty and elegance of this exceptional establishment, while conserving the spirit of its prestigious 18th-century edifice.  Inspired by its glorious history, respectful of its traditions and faithful to its character, the restoration adds a contemporary polish to the hotel.  

Under the guidance of renowned architect Richard Martinet, the artistic director Aline Asmar d’Amman and four Paris-based decorators—Chahan Minassian, Cyril Vergniol, Culture in Architecture and Tristan Auer—have created a rich tapestry of sophisticated interiors.  The transformed Hôtel de Crillon offers incomparable luxury with eclectic, art-driven spaces that culminate in an emotional crescendo… elegantly expressing the spirit of Paris.

Art, Collaborations, Event, Hotel, News

EXCLUSIVE SCENTED CANDLE FOR HÔTEL DE CRILLON, PARIS

Naomi Goodsir ·

Available exclusively at :

The Boutique Hôtel de Crillon, A Rosewood Hotel 10 Place de la Concorde, 75008 Paris.

https://www.rosewoodhotels.com/en/hotel-de-crillon

Naomi had the honour to create a signature scent for Hôtel de Crillon, A Rosewood Hotel.

A bespoke scented candle, respecting the illustrious history and uniqueness of Hôtel de Crillon, as well as fine French perfumery.

A free interpretation by Naomi : the candle is a homage to this Parisian landmark and to the Duke of Crillon, who inspired Moreau & Robert in 1860 to conceive a rose.

Perfumer Karine Chevallier

An oriental floral with hints of honeyed rose*, precious amber, woody notes and warm spices. Both vintage and contemporary, this elegant scented candle is a tribute to classical perfumery and to the eminent history of Hôtel de Crillon. Perfumer Karine Chevallier reinterprets the spirit of this Parisian icon through the years - between illustrious guests and French impertinence. 

* « Duc de Crillon » rose was created in 1860 by Moreau & Robert as an eponymous homage to the Duke of Crillon, an emblematic figure of French history. A “Bourbon” rose, opulent and perfumed. Moreau & Robert were one of the most renowned French horticulturists  credited for roses such as  “Jacques Cartier” and “Comte de Chambord”.

Art, design, Exhibitions, inspiration

GLASS EXHIBITION AT MUDAC, LAUSANNE - SWITZERLAND

Naomi Goodsir ·

A few selected pieces from MUDAC Musée de Design et d’Arts Appliqués collection. “Verre en scène #6”.

Atelier BL 119. Lanterne 2011 by Grégory Blain & Hervé Dixneuf (France). BLown glass, sand-blasted glass, MDF powder-coated base, electrical system.

Art verrier contemporain - Collection du Mudac.

Ales Vasicek (CZ) - Hemisphere, 2013 - Verre moulée, taillé et poli. Collection du Mudac.

Art, design, Event, Exhibitions, Nuit de Bakélite

"NEZ A NEZ" - CONTEMPORARY PERFUMERS AT MUDAC, LAUSANNE

Naomi Goodsir ·

13 contemporary perfumers, 39 perfumes including Nuit de Bakélite by Isabelle Doyen. A great honour. An exhibition by MUDAC Lausanne & Nez la revue from 15.02.19 till 16.06.19. An immersive experience that offers a glimpse into aspects of this applied art form that are often shrouded in secrecy. Here, design serves to elevate the art of perfumery. Perfumers : Marc-Antoine Corticchiato, Isabelle Doyen, Céline Ellena, Jean-Claude Ellena, Rodrigo Flores-Roux, Olivia Giacobetti, Pierre Guillaume, Vero Kern, Patricia de Nicolai, Fabrice Pellegrin, Dominique Ropion, Maurice Roucel, Lorenzo Villoresi. Design by Studio Glithero.

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ISABELLE DOYEN - Ninfeo Meo by Goutal Paris (2010) / Turtle Vetiver by Les Nez (2013) / Nuit de Bakélite by Naomi Goodsir (2017).

DOMINIQUE ROPION - Kenzo Jungle by Kenzo (1996) / Alien by Mugler (2005) / Portrait of a Lady by Editions de parfums Frédéric Malle (2010).

MAURICE ROUCEL - Tocade by Rochas (1994) / Insolence by Guerlain (2006) / Musc Ravageur by Editions de parfums Frédéric Malle (2000).

What an honour for Nuit de Bakélite (2017) to be affiliated with: Fracas by Piguet (1948), Giorgio Berverly Hills (1981), Poison by Dior (1985), Tubéreuse Criminelle by Serge Lutens (1998), Carnal Flower by Frédéric Malle (2000).

https://mudac.ch/

Parfums, design, New dress code, New bottle

NEW BOTTLE BY NG

Naomi Goodsir ·

Same spirit & custom design/made by Naomi Goodsir. A simple/chic vintage look, a black bakelite cap & “N.G” creator’s initials engraved under the flacon as a signature.

Art, inspiration, Studio

KISSING IN THE NEW YEAR

Naomi Goodsir ·

A graphic vision of our scented New Year card by Naomi Goodsir. Artwork by Studio NG.

Parfums, press, Review

OR DU SÉRAIL BY JURAJ SOTOSEK-RIHTAREC

Naomi Goodsir ·

Naomi Goodsir Or du Sérail, Lagavulin & Sinbad’s Seven Seas

Ingenious Australian hat designer moved to France and probably made the best decision in her life – to start making perfumes. I think that her creations overwhelm thousands around the globe because I can’t think how one couldn’t appreciate those, true niche, scents. Vive la globalisation et creative spirit of Naomi Goodsir studio.

It’s so rare nowadas to find beautfiul, captivating perfume houses. The ones that have soul and some story to tell, but also, and what is most important to me, personality. With Naomi Goodsir Parfums I can feel her personality in every creation because I connect it to the open minded and unique personality, just like she is in real life.

My latest crush is Or du Sérail. I mean, I have 24/7 crushes on her creations because they are simply must-have for all perfume lovers. What is the most magnificent of all, I constantly re-discover creations. As I change, they do change as well. It’s the olfactory magic of artistic approach to the creation. That might be the highest quality of this studio – independent creations with cojones.

Extravagant creations

Naomi Goodsir is all about uniqueness. Like it was aforementioned, she is Australian creator, designer, that specialized in accessories mostly. Nowadays, you can see beautiful and creative hats signed by her hand, which are truly extravagant, elegant and eternal. It’s the combination of high quality materials with creative touch. The same goes for bags and accessories. If you ever have a chance to meet her in person, don’t miss it.

Uniqueness is translated to scents. Each scent is praised by perfume lovers and have positive notes by perfume critics such as bloggers and journalists. They combine the artistic touch. The latest acclamation came by Art & Olfaction institution that awarded Nuit de Bakélite as the best independent creation last year. If you smell that one, you will have olfactory enlightenment and discover how tuberose can be white and green. One of my favorites, Bois d’Ascèse offers spiritual smoky effect of burnt coal and dark leather. It’s a house to explore, that’s for sure.

Intoxicating one

Or du Sérail is as intoxicating as crystal eyes lurking in the dark, somewhere in gentleman’s club with Cuban cigar between his fingers and smoke fulfilling the room. In the same time intoxicating sweet tobacco scent arouses and brings irresistible whiffs of it.

Second main component is the miracle from Gods, golden nectar that heals the soul. It is golden honey that makes it sensual, soft, sweet, with generous ambery tones. It’s like sunset somewhere in the desert, where endless sunrays play with heat.

When I first saw les merveilles in Paris, I was amazed with the art of patisserie. It was the scent of delicious, baked sweetness. This perfume reminds me of same, exciting feeling. The intoxicating scent of olfactory art curated by notes of tobacco, golden honey, sweet oriental spices and dried fruits. What a wonderful perfume, the ona that lingers in the air and leaves appealing scent of sweet and innocent seduction.

Sinbad and Lagavulin

I would pair this masterpiece by Bertrand Duchafour with Lagavulin 16 YO. It’s the refinement of this Islay heritage that makes it smooth, while richness comes from the combination of oak casks which are well toasted. Lagavulin has the smooth smoky aftertaste that makes you feel sensation of spices and warmness. Exactly the same effect has this perfume. I was serving Lagavulin, dried figs, dried dates, almonds, nuts, cashew and Juan Clemente Dominican cigars to friends when they came over. The air was full of natural Or du Sérail. It’s the magic of this scent that possessed me.

Another motive that I am thinking of is the story of Sinbad. This fierce sailor from Middle East had adventurous life full of unexpected encounters and supranatural places. On his sixth voyage, yet again he is shipwrecked quite violently on the cliffs. He builds a raft and discovers a river running out of a cavern beneath the cliffs. The stream proves to be filled with precious stones and becomes apparent that the island’s streams flow with ambergris. He woke up in the city of Ceylon and discovered that diamonds are in its rivers and pearls in its valleys. He returns to Baghdad with a cup carved from a single ruby, a bed made from the skin of serpent that swallowed an elephant and a slave-gril like a shining moon.

Ceylon, famous for its spices is one of my leitmotivs, while the Oriental warmth gives this ambery, warm, tobacco feeling. Enduring and beautiful.

Or du Sérail is truly like a shining moon. At the moment, I can’t imagine more suitable perfume than this. Enveloping, beautiful, spicy and warm miracle. It makes me go read Thousand and one night stories. Let me know if you were enchanted as I am.

Text & photos by Juraj Sotosek-Rihtarec

www.bleauog.com

inspiration, Parfums, Restaurant

A FEW DAYS IN COPENHAGEN, DENMARK

Naomi Goodsir ·

Passing by Crime Passionnel, Hyskenstraede 14.

Christmas time in Tivoli Gardens.

Tivoli Gardens was founded in 1843 and has become a national treasure and an international attraction. Fairy tale writer Hans Christian Andersen visited many times, as did Walt Disney who even found the inspiration to his own Disney World here.

Part of Tivoli Gardens' secret is that there is something for everyone. The scenery is beautiful with exotic architecture, historic buildings and lush gardens. At night, thousands of colored lights create a fairy tale atmosphere that is completely unique.

For a drink/cocktail, we recommend RUBY, an institution in Denmark.

For dinner, try modern Dansish cuisine at the (Michelin rated) restaurant GEMYSE inside Tivoli Gardens

magazine, Parfums, press, Review

HOW TO SPEND IT, UK

Naomi Goodsir ·

The smoky aromas of bonfires, roasted chestnuts, frankincense and lapsang souchong tea are among the most complex, and I know quite a few individuals who fantasise about a fragrance that smells like a charcoal-grilled steak. There is a difference, however, between enjoying a scent in its proper context – charred ribeye at a barbecue or burning leaves in an autumnal park – and wearing a fragrance that reprises such odours. For this reason, the perfumery interpretations of smoke tend to blend it into a more familiar setting of woods, spices and resins.

One of the best introductions to a smoky perfume is L’Artisan Parfumeur’s Passage d’Enfer (£105 for 100ml EDT). Perfumer Olivia Giacobetti is known for her ability to create olfactory watercolours – airy, transparent compositions. Passage d’Enfer combines lilies and incense, filling the spaces between the white, cool petals with smoke. Giacobetti’s touch is light, and the perfume remains soft and radiant, from the smoky opening to the vanilla- and cedarwood-accented drydown.

I would be remiss if I didn’t mention another delicate and smoky perfume created by Giacobetti for Hôtel Costes in Paris. Capturing the idea of woods and velvet, the perfumer composed a sandalwood and rose fragrance laced with incense. Hôtel Costes Splash (€110 for 125ml EDT) proves that smoke can be glamorous as well as intriguing.

Smoky nuances in perfumery aren’t new, and classics like Chanel’s Cuir de Russie (£150 for 75ml EDP), Guerlain’s Shalimar (£99 for 90ml EDP) or Molinard’s Habanita (€94 for 75ml EDP) have flirted with the smouldering inflections of frankincense, benzoin or amber. What makes the modern smoky fragrances different is their boldness. Naomi Goodsir’s Bois d'Ascèse (€140 for 50ml EDP) doesn’t hold back on dramatic materials like birch tar, leather and incense, and the effect is striking. The fragrance smells smoky, but it’s so cleverly balanced that wearing it is no different from enjoying a classical woody oriental blend, albeit one with more verve.

Those who indeed want to smell of charcoal and tar can have their wish granted by Comme des Garçons’ Black (£80 for 100ml EDT). The name doesn’t lie. It’s a dark perfume that evokes charred woods, crushed black pepper and tanned leather. The first time I wore it, I was shocked, because I didn’t expect such an explosive effect – and so much smoke out of a bottle. The fragrance turned out to be addictive, however, and I’ve grown to enjoy the potent opening and the unexpectedly tender and warm drydown. It transpired that perfumer Guillaume Flavigny used a gingerbread accent to round out the edges of Black, thus making smoke smell sweet.

HOW TO SPEND IT

Article by Victoria Frolova, December 2018.

magazine, Perfume, press

HAIR'S HOW MAGAZINE, RUSSIA

Naomi Goodsir ·

Thank you to HAIR’S HOW MAGAZINE Russia for their interview about Naomi Goodsir, part of an issue dedicated to Australia.

Art, Exhibitions, inspiration

ART TIME - MICHEL BLAZY

Naomi Goodsir ·

“TIMELINE” at the Galerie des Ponchettes in Nice (France), the artist creates an immersive environmental installation like a garden of delights, in which frescoes, ruins ans spontaneous vegetation offer an experience of time. The landscape dreamed up by Michel Blazy reveals what appear to be ancestral frescoes. Dotted with everyday objects - a hard disc, a brick, a pipe, a coat, a bottle - overrun with prolific vegetation, the space appears to belong to another time, like a forgotten ruin. In the center, a heap of coal is overgrown with vegetation, reborn from its ashes. A landscape drawn on an architectural scale like a post-romantic garden of meditation.

Feu, 2017 - Burnt wood, water, spontaneous vegetation.

Coat, 2013/2018 - Coat, spontaneous vegetation, water.

Maple and pipe, 2017 - Maple, pipe, earth.

“TIMELINE” at The Galerie des Ponchettes / MAMAC, Hors des Murs. July 7th /November 4th 2018. 7, Quai des Etats-Unis, Nice - France. www.mamac-nice.org


Collaborations, Event, Fashion, Hat

COLLABORATION LES BAINS X NAOMI GOODSIR

Naomi Goodsir ·

FROM WOOL TO HAT - LE KÉPI.

Made in France by one of the last hat manufacturers labeled ‘Living Heritage Companies (EPV)’. The company takes care of all the manufacturing steps from the Australian Merino wool bundle recognized for its exceptional qualities, to the molding of the hat including the felt cone.

For  “Képi" - inspired by a military hat from the 1900’s, Naomi Goodsir first conceived by hand, a felt shape which was then used to make a custom made hat block.

WHEN THE ICONIC TEMPLE OF PARISIAN NOCTURNAL LIFE, NOW A LUXURY BOUTIQUE-HOTEL MET AN ATYPICAL CREATOR, THE RESULT IS A ‘CHIC-ROCK HAT’ ISSUED FROM FRENCH & DOWN UNDER SAVOIR-FAIRE.

“The Képi” is available in 2 colours - loden green & midnight blue.

La boutique Les Bains - 2 rue du Bourg Labbé 75003 Paris & online at https://laboutique.lesbains-paris.com/fr/

Credits : Naomi Goodsir / Les Bains